Hey, I want to drill two holes on the outside of the clutch bell on my puch e50. Probably about a 1/2" in diameter, one on one side and one opposite it, to balance it out. Now, this is the part where the clutch pad runs, but If I camfer the edges on the inside, do you guys think it would be a problem? BTW, this is the main part of a super secret project I have devised.
TaylorN.
are you sure its off balance?
Ohh no sorry, bad wording. Its not off balance, I want to drill a hole in it, and I only need one hole, but i need to drill another on the opposite side to balance it back out. since I took weight off one side, i need to take it off the other.
Sorry bout that.
TaylorN.
What is the idea behind this, it sounds like you want to create something similar to a cheese grader?
nope not a cheese grater. It a secret project that I came up with while almost asleep, and I have never seen anyone do it. Its going to be great.
Would make a lot more sense to put them in the back like paz did. Really dont think added performance, would out weight the lost strength.
sorry tommy, amazingly, this isn't for reducing rotating mass.
can I buy some pot off of you?
sorry don't do pot, or any drugs for that matter. only vodka and whiskey, lol. I have a feeling when I finish it, you guys will like my idea, especially you hard core tuners...it will make a task very simple....hint....
Wouldnt work. you couldnt get to the sdjustment screws with a screw driverr while it is in the motor. Cant remove the clutch bell without removing the clutch.
Unless you tapped a huge ass screw in the case for access but overall a waste of time
yeah. you'd have to split the case to get to get to the holes. which would be way more work than just pulling the clutch.
muhahaha.......its pretty much done....my secret project....
heres some really crappy pics from my cell phone becuase I cant find my digital camera. maybe better pics later.
You would have to spilt the case, unlesss.......you drill a hole in the case itself!!
First Step-pull out rubber plug (need to find one that will fit in the hole, but thats the least of my worries.
You see this:
<a href="http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/?action=view¤t=IMG00177.jpg"; target="_blank"><img src="http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/IMG00177.jpg"; border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Second step- turn back wheel so it rotates the clutch drum until you see your little acces hole.
<a href="http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/?action=view¤t=IMG00178.jpg"; target="_blank"><img src="http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/IMG00178.jpg"; border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Third step- stick a screwdriver in the whole to hold the clutch drum in place while you turn the flywheel (you are tuning your moped, so I assume you probably don't put the flywheel cover on, never-the-less, its only two little machine screws) untill you see the adjustment screw on the clutch through both the case hole and clutch drum hole.
<a href="http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/?action=view¤t=IMG00175.jpg"; target="_blank"><img src="http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/71_Cheyenne/IMG00175.jpg"; border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Adjust away!!
Booyah.
by the time your clutch is tuned you'll need to replace those eaten shoes
you think so? I'm not so sure, I've camfered the inside edges pretty good
I'm skeptical, might also have some issues with the flow of the tranny fluid, but hey, give it a shot.
I personally dont want to do drilling any holes in my cases.
give it some rips and check it out
Well, i need to take it all apart and clean out any metal shavings that might have gotten in there, but after that I'm prolly going to throw it on my magnum and see how it goes..
found this. the holes are smaller, but still there. might put smaller holes in a different drum, just enought to get a pretty small screwdriver in there
I don't think it would chew up the pads, ever seen cross drilled brake rotors?
So all this to avoid removing the clutch to get to the screws?
yeah, but it also avoids laying the bike on its side, removeing that fucking spring for the kickstand, removing the clutch cover, screwing up the clutch cover gasket, taking out the clutch, possiblility of screwing up the crank's threads. yeah
possibility of noticing a failing clutch
The main difference is that the go kart clutch shown is a dry clutch and the pads are very hard material unlike the soft material on puch clutches. The holes in the side of the bell are likely for cooling.
And cooling this might just do wet too. The fluid will be able to change sides better, keep holes small and chamfered (round not angular edges). This might just work, very good. Let us know if this is a goodie.
Don't forget to mark you screw heads on the clutch so you don't accidently adjust the same one twice.
I would say this idea is a failure. You can't tell if the springs have an even tension. Each spring has a slightly different spring constant due to variations in length and consistency. Getting the shoes to go out at the same time is hard enough off the bike. You could check the shoes through the holes if you wanted, although I suspect the holes (although chamfered) will still chew through a tuned clutch like nothing else. Have you ever seen a well tuned clutch eaten up in the smooth drum? It happens. The clutch material will deform more than the harder go cart clutch shoe.
Let me know if I'm wrong.
Eric
Prediction: Vroooooaaaaaaaarrrrr-KABOOM-rign-ting-ting-ting
The sound of your, now very weak, clutchbell exploding. You've taken material out of an already pretty flimsy clutch bell, and to top it off you've done it at the point it is most stress sensitive.
I could be wrong tho. Never tried something like this.
Once you got it tuned though, it's tuned. You know what I'm sayin?
Those holes in that go kart clutch drum is for letting out some of the shoe dust and supposedly gases from the clutch material. They do that on the B/S dragsters . If you've ever seen those things go you'll notice that the clutches are somewhat smoky afterwards on the higher hp dragsters (burning clutch material and the adhesives embeded in the material ) . The idea was kinda like getting oil on a brake drum , there's no where for the oil to go but back on the shoe , same applies to the dust from the clutch shoes . It's not like a clutch disk where wear material as well as oil etc get flung to the outside .
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