MOPED ARMY

how hot is too hot?

how do u know its too hot?

i just started experimenting with with a laser temp reader i'm around 180 F normal blasting around the streets and pull over, a similiar one i saw at 200 F, different intake though, makes me think that intake lengths/shapes/material will run your cylinder cooler or hotter, obviously cooler will provide best power. then an ok 2 speed polini i saw around 160 F, all preliminary tests though. pipe header around 270 F

I hope your doing a real "plug chop" this is from my bike with a 92 main, accuracy... the smaller the black ring on the bottome of the insulator the better the jetting for maximum power, after this i dropped to a 90 and I run 6 plugs for a totally white unsulator, faster then ever...

yeah wat brandon said... how did u cut open ur plug? just curious it seems like it might take along time with a dremil cutoff wheel.

also where did u learn about the ring at the bottom of the plug? seems like a good method.

lets do it, 2 stroke tuners talks about this plug chop easier than i though thats why i haven't done it before, but yeah just carry two plugs with you do a long wot and switch the plug out go hope dremel cuttoff - 4min, whoala! I want to check how the 90 jet looks so i can see the comparision.

I can usually touch the fins for a good second under normal riding conditions but long WOT i'm sure it gets over 200. I imagine super hot would be like 240F + this being the outside of the cylinder wall but this would mean your lean so, worry aboout the plug chop because you can't do anything about it being too hot if your jetted correctly, besides taking it easy. i'm sure new cylinders will run hotter at first anyways

nice.... i haven't looked at that page since i 1st got into peds, lol it might be time to review the basics.. cheers!

brandon, what kind of timing are you running? I've heard full advance runs hotter, but also is more powerful.

i find it pointless to do a "plug chop" on the street it shows almost nothing, i takes a lot of miles to even get build on the face of the threads which is what your supposed to read, I think almost everyone runs too cold of a plug because they're reading the insulator and electrode or something and they want color on it, insulator should be WHITE. I jet off a guess since i've been so involved in many mopeds/ parts then i tune it by performance and feel.

I feel like you should run a plug as hot as possible before you have pre ignition/dednoation because plug rating does not effect engine temps and you'll never foul.

seems like a cheap way to tune to have a high performance realiable machine thats jetted correctly and i'll never have to buy to new plugs.

I'd like to see elliots... Advanced/Retard doesn't really mean anything since it's dependent on the size of your gap right? moving the stator is only for small adjustments for _advancing_ or _retarding_ your gap's timing?

Poor timing will cause heat problems i'm guesing

I've only messed with my timing on my new bike once since i've never found perfect timing. everybike is differnt but i made a small gap and advanced and it was shit, opened gap and advanced it's been really fast. I thought your supposed to advance as much as possible for peak performance, in most cases. top end bikes will need slightly retarded timing compared to if it was a city bike. (cdi curve...)

IF your bike runs really well and you have tiny alluminum specks on your plug from the crown your advanced maybe for peak performance(advanced-> slight dentonation) IF it runs really bad you could be too advance or retarded.

I'm going to adjust for really fast and try to get the specks then back off on the stator.

I heard if you points make a spark you condensor it bad??

from stock. Stock timing on an e50 is 0.80-1.2mm BTDC. Elliot, when you said fill advanced is 1mm, I'm guessing you meant 2mm? Since advanced would detonate while the piston is further away from TDC. I have mine set at 1.5mm and gap at .018" which is on the small side of stock for and e50 (.016"-.024").

ok so i just re read the ignition chapter of Abells book since there have been alot of ignition Q's on the forums latly around performance.

To all READ that chapter again. Its good, and there is slot of info in there, i won't go into it all but here are some interesting tid bits:

points are only to time the bike the duration is of no concern but some cdi have too little duration

so if u have a movable stator and points set the movable part and play with the points to time it.

timing must be more retarded for more top end and more advanced for more low end (basically) the more performance ur motor the more retarded from stock u want ur timing (now i'm really curious to where mine is set too)

plug gap should also be made smaller than stock on high performance motors to better atomize fuel at high rpm sine the coils can't generate the power to spark as strong at high rpm. larger gap is better low end, smaller gap better top end.

there is slot more in there, read it!

guess what happend to me on the ride last night

2 jets smaller

dude, if your bike is ruined, that will be a huge shame. that thing was awesome.

y did u run a hotter plug also? and that sux, don't worry guys its not ruined.

Yeah, but those specks of aluminum on the insulator means something is melting.

hotter and leaner, timing was off too, plus i practiced my new _trick_ doing 50mph next to a concrete wall with sparks then the non grand finale of blowing up a little later

sorry everyone i got the last one; lets just say gila 2.0 will run jeting/plugs a little safer in a few days here along with improved alterations...