I weighed out the three weights that come with the variplus and made up a little chart of the total mass of various combinations of weights. there is some redundancy so some combinations will give the same total mass.
I will say that, for a stock AV10 with polini reeds, 20mm PHBG, Ninja G3 and 70cc airsal, 4.8gm is NOT enough weight. . .yikes!
70 kits usually run heavier weights on av10's. try somewhere around 11 grams.
Nice Job Ian !!
so whats everyone running?
personally my ppls champ runs 12g but maybe i should drop it some.
we need more graphs with what the different weights do now.
arn't there any engineers on this site who can calculate this stuff?
like at 9g I will accelerate at so many ft/per second etc.
nice chart man. just got a v+ so this will be handy. elliot once i get my G3 on and tuned, the var goes on next... we'll have twin setups and can compare notes. aka you will tell me what's up like always haha. but seriously, i wouldnt mind guinea pigging a few things for the sake of science once i get this stuff figured out.
Since this is a post about the v+, two quick questions: First of all, whats the best way to take apart the stock variator? am i gonna have to make one of them tools or is there a different way? Second, ive seen people say sometimes the weights dont roll freely in their tracks. is it ok to sand them down a bit to make them not hang up on shit? obviously not remove _too_ much wieght, but just enough material so its clear from obstructions.
i usd to ut tri flow in every once and awhile
I have a Varplizzy that I haven't installed yet and I realize that lighter weights = faster acceleration, or atleast it revs up faster. but is it advantageous at all to run heavier weights. would you experience better top end? i'm still deciding which weights to use, trial and error here I come...
Nick, the idea behind the variator is to allow the engine to stay within it's power band while accelerating. Having too heavy of weights will cause the variator to spin out to it's tallest gear when the motor might not be ready for the added work and having too light of weights might take the motor out of it's power band before it can spin the variator to it's highest gear, leaving you stuck with not the best top end speed.
I was running the 6 light weights at Bomb Prom and it seemed to do fine with my 70cc Malossi kit on a ported bottom end with polini reeds and a 21mm phbg, but that was with the stock spring. I now have a Doppler spring which needs to be installed asap before BroBQ. I assume the added pressure from the spring means I need to up the weight in the varplus.
I had to sand the weights on my Varioplus - no biggie - a few swipes of the ends on a sheet of sandpaper.
I'm running the heaviest weights on my 62 cc Malossi kit, per Nick at QK, who said that the AV7 wasn't throwing enough HP to variate his Moby all the way with the mid-weights. Not wanting to have to take it all apart to play with them, I just took his suggestion and dropped the solid ones in there.
The variator opening up all the way has nothing to do with the HP the engine is producing but simply the rpms at which it is turning. With a given spring rate, weight wet and ramp shape it will open at a given rate, fully opening at the same rpm every time for the same setup. Lighter weights make the slope of the opening less dramatic, i.e. open slower. Same thing if you increase the spring rate by either using a different spring or shimming the stock one out. The only way a weight set will affect top speed is if the weights are so light that at the full rpm of the engine it does not open the plate all the way.
On my bike which runs a ported stock cylinder I run 3 medium and 3 light weights and it opens up all the way just fine with the stock springs.
Thanks for clarifying my statement Jesse! I believe he was referencing that it wasn't fully variating at full RPM's. Given the hassles I went through getting the back nut and fixed cheek off the first and second time, I just went heavy. I've got other tweaks to make before I take the variator off again.
Bert, the more you play with the variator the easy it gets to take apart.
ahem... once again whats the best way to take one of these things apart? I "know" how to do it, i just havent tried yet cause im too lazy to make a tool. other easier ways? Thanks,
ouch. i guess that was necessary?
yes steve it was, make the damn tools already you need a piece of flat bar, 3 3'8" bolts its easy stick it all in the bench vise grap the torch and go at it! GIT R DUN!
ya'll need to relax. ok, if making the tool is the best way to do it then i'll do it, thats why i asked. no need to start slinging shit around. we're all friends here, are we not?
of course we are, and friends give each other a hard time, unmercifully.
do it like put in the wiki the non tool way its not easier but it means u don't have to make the tool.
its quite easy to disassemble ur variator once its already been done once.
common still want to see those graphs number dudes.
okay, i'm halfway through installing my variplus. a few questions:
1. with the directions in french it's not clear exactly how to mount it up (what are the four screws for??), and when i have it together the way it seems like it should go, the two posts that penetrate the flange (and were there to engage the two tabs on the stock ramp plate) hit the belt when it spins. i plan to shave them down, as i don't see any other option, but what have other people done?
2. i'm running a 15mm del phbg, a vintage simonini pipe, and a stock ported (wiki) cylinder. should i start with 10-12 grams of weight? what have people running a similar arrangement had the most luck with?
you gotta keep taking it apart, on either side of the posts are two screws that have been punch set to the backing plate. You have to take those out, remove the part with the posts and _then_ slide the plastic caps on the posts, Then stick that back thru the backing plate, and use the new screws to hold it all together.
The old screws can be a super bitch to get out, its nice to have and impact driver
check out this thread.
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