MOPED ARMY

how long heat fade sets in after like 10 minutes of riding IMO which takes way all the balls and just makes it smooth

bad rings?

move needle up maybe just a guess could be ok on startup

but to rich at low throttle when the engine warms up

like I said just a guess

yeah i might try playing with the needle a bit, its just the fact that the bike's performance changes as the engine heats up that makes me think its not really a carburation issue.

break-in was fine, no air leaks at all, timing is dead on.

If what I worte above doesn't help, then try leaning your needle one notch.

In the Dellorto manual they always say to make sure your engine it at full operating temp before adjusting, so it still could be a carb tuning issue. Engine temp definitely makes a difference.

NGK b7hs. what is heat fade?

damn it tim. i hate tuning my idle. fine.

Low end that progressively gets worse while riding is always due to heat. but not always in the same way.

"heat fade" is the process of your combustion getting too hot after everything heats up. Basically after you ride around for a while, usually 5 min or so but every bike is different, your bike starts to lose alot of low end. this is because the spark plug is too hot. To fix this go to a higher # plug, if you run a 6 go to s 7 if a 7 go 8 etc.

The second heat related progressive loss of low end is due to the transmission fluid getting too hot and slipping like a motha. This happens when clutches are tuned out drastically, they are shot, or the type of fluid used is not correct. Fluids like mobil 1 5w20 and non moto grade tranny fluid will slip more as they heat up (some tuners tune with this in mind) More constant fluids like moto grade atf will always grab the same and break down less with heat.

Its easy to tell if the clutch slip is the culprit, if the loss in low end is resulting a prolonged clutch engagement or a clutch that "double shifts" ie catches then releases and catches again, then its obviously a slipping issue.

Other reasons bikes have bad lowend are as follows:

timing is too retarded

jetting/tuning is drastically off

air leaks, especially in the magneto side crank seal.

gearing is too tall

intake is too big

Steps I'd take to trouble shoot if its not the clutch, if you think it might be the clutch open that shit up and check it out, replace the fluid with moto grade atf (not car atf) as well.

throw in a cooler plug--- test

check for air leaks around the magneto side seal, obvious ones will have goo coming out of them. if you find one, rebuild the motor.

set timing to full advance on the stator and set the points gap to a a hairline (i really need to figure out what i set the timing too "hairline" is kinda vague, just make sure its really small and still firing)---test

pop in a a larger (or stock) pilot jet and re tune that circuit as instructed above.--test

btw 37 sounds kinda small for the pilot jet, just my opinion tho, i never tuned a 65 metra.

wow elliot thanks.

i was having problems with this setup backfiring a few weeks ago so i spent some time making sure my timing is right. i believe i have it set just slightly retarded but ill check again to be sure.

thanks for the other suggestions too. now i know what to try.

my buddy had to tighten his head bolts intake nuts and ehxaust header for the first 100 mile increments of his kit break in.

u should tighten that stuff again after the motor heats up but not continually, once the aluminum fuses its set, don't touch it.

also timing retarded on [uch = bad performance

stock puch ignitions like full advance and small points gaps, trust me. even at full advance they fire at like 1mm b4 TDC with a hair line point gap, open it another hairline and u will unleaseh"the power"