Hey everyone
I recently rebuilt my Puch E50 and put a 70cc TCCD kit with a Bullet exhaust, racing crank, and a three shoe clutch. My problem is when I start the bike, I set the wheel down to ride and the engine dies. Is there something that I am missing?
what have you done to your carb?
CArb is a 15mm Bing. The only thing I have done to it is I downjetted a few sizes.
I don't even have a Performance air filter on it yet.
you DOWNjetted?
With all those upgrades you really should be upjetting.
Its not getting enough gas!
Chill. He probably downjetted from the jet that came stock in the 15mm bing. Isn't it like an 82 or something?
TCCD's don't like to idle.
I fixed mine by screwing out the throttle cable so the slide (16sha) is slightly open.
The stock jet was an 82. I figured that if I downjetted, I might be able to cut down the RPMs and solve the problem.
So if the TCCD doesn't like to idle, how does one get going? It stalls out everytime I take it off the centerstand.
^
I answered your question within the same post.
How did you set your 3 shoe clutch?
On the stand it rips but if you lay it down it sucks balls and dies right? If so, you are getting too much air, OR your piston is upside down.
I know that I have an exhaust leak. Could this be part of the problem?
sounds like the clutch is staying engaged. push start the ped and see if it will go...
The rear wheel spins freely when the starter lever is not pulled. I am thinking that maybe the tension springs need to be adjusted so that the shoes do not stay engaged as long as the engine runs. The service manual indicates that the clutch engages at 1200 RPM.
I did not set the three shoe, I just put it in. Not enough tension maybe?
That means nothing now. You put an untuned 3 shoe clutch in.
Jet sizes have nothing to do with whatever you were saying about rpms at idle.
If I were you, I'd put the 2 shoe clutch back in and get your carburetor tuned right first. Then buy some better springs and put them in your 3 shoe and start tuning that.
if you rev it up on the stand then hold down the back brake stop the wheel and give it gas but keep the wheel locked what happens?
does it still die or barely pull when u give it gas or does the motor try to struggle up into rpms by spinning the clutch even tho the wheel is locked in place and really seems like it has power.
if the motor has power the issue is idling or ur clutch settings, try adjusting the throttle slide higher so it idles higher.
if the motor has no power the issue is in tuning and or there are air leaks (not the exhaust leak unless its massive)
did you find the problem?
No, but I think the problem lies in the tension springs on the clutch. Is there a widely accepted amount of turns per screw to obtain the right amount of tension? I know that the screws being flush is not enough and the screws being turned seven half turns is too much.
i have paz springs turn all the way in then backed out about 3 turns
I am using the stock springs that came with the clutch.
I've heard that the springs that come installed in the 3 shoe clutch suck, and that they're actually worse than the stock springs in the 2 shoe clutch. You gotta get some Paz springs, or really crank down the stock ones. The problem is, if you crank down the stock ones too far, they bind. Have you read the wiki article on clutch tuning?
I have. The article spoke of modifying the clutch with adjustment screws and reinforcement plates. I don't really have the tools to do that. So should I just replace the stock springs with the Paz springs?
Sidenote, is there a Wiki article about engine timing? The bike starts, but the timing is off. I have the service manual, but it is too vague.
Okay, I had it running yesterday, and today I went to start the bike up. I noticed that there is a popping sound, like an electrical arc, or something. Anyone have any idea what this noise is?
could be the horn
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