is that pic i came up with going to work?
i want a battery to run the more powerful horn and run my lights steadily with out dimming when i slow down... maybe some other stuff later on too.
i purposely left out the ignition system because if the battery fails i dont want the ignition system to also, and there is no point in having it when i dont have electric start on it.
p.s. Microsoft paint isn't the best but deal with it :P
any opinion would be appreciated!
u should not post .bmp images anywhere on the internet
why not?
here is a .jpg to tickle your fancy!
That's great if you want to blow up a battery.
A full wave rectifier will keep that from happening. it's 4 diodes- they turn ac, and all the other sloppy stuff a magneto puts out into DC, so it won't kill your battery.
thanks! where can i get one? this site need more smart people to answer questions us stupid people need answers to!
Radio Shack. Or you can make one with 4 diodes.
diodes are what?
will this do the trick or not?
i dont really see any on radio shack that are rated for the 35 crank amps that the battery gets is that all right
they only allow electricity to flow in one direction (unless you put A LOT of voltage in the wrong direction)
is that one i have linked what i need?
Not wanting to complicate your life, but you do not need a full-wave bridge rectifier. A simple diode will work. Most, if not all Honda moped designs only have a single diode for changing AC to DC. The result is a very "noisy" DC, but light bulbs and your horn don't care about that.
See the picture for the location of the diode.
In addition, I have yet to see where the same magneto coil is used for both lighting and the CDI. Every schematic (so far) has two sets of windings - one for the lighting, and another for the CDI. I can only assume that the voltage requirements for the CDI are much different than for lighting.
using only a diode will only allow for half of the electricity to charge the battery, and half of the electricity to run the accessories (horn, lights). So why not use a full wave bridge rectifier??? Only costs $3 at RS or u can make ur own out of 4 diodes.
Actually now that i think about it, not using a rectifier may only allow for 25% and not half. 1/2V x 1/2A = 1/4W
Here's a schematic if you want to try the full wave bridge rectifier. Again, I am not confident that your lighting coil can also feed your CDI.
what kind of moped do you have?
what kind of CDI?
if you give us specifics we can do more to help you.
So why not use a full wave bridge rectifier???
Nothing wrong with using one, just not necessary. In addition, I was just adding that, for Honda moped's at least, only a single diode is used. Why? I can't say for certain - although I do have my technical opinions - you'd have to find the Honda engineer that designed it, and ask him.
ok i have a tomos 2001 sprint
the cdi and magneto is just from my newb-ness
and i think i am going to use a full wave bridge rectifier because it sounds safer and easier
thanks for all the help
i only did that to show that...
"i purposely left out the ignition system because if the battery fails i dont want the ignition system to also, and there is no point in having it when i dont have electric start on it."
but what would the schematic look like if i knew all of it lol
like where would the 2 wires that comeout of the engine (almost possitive they are the magneto wires) go so i dont completly f*ck up my 'ped
here is a pick of my electrical system's roots what are the wires i need to connect to the full wave bridge rectifier then the battery
scratch that... cant get a pic sorry but i looked at it and it seems like there is a red (positive i think) and a brown (ground)
what do i do about a negative
can someone draw me a schematic from scratch so it works lol
another post to my own thread!
i checked the voltage regulator and it says 60watts 12 volts... then how the hell does a 25w bulb last... as soon as i hit max rpm's it should blow shouldnt it?
The voltage regulator rating of 60 watts means that it was designed to pass 60 watts of power at 12 volts (meaning 5 amperes). It does not mean that the power output will equal 60 watts. It is a rating of capability - what the system is capable of producing.
If you only had the headlight on (let's assume that there are no other lights in the system), then the load generated by the system (at 12 volts), would be 25 watts - the rating of the bulb. As you add more electrical load - like for taillights, speedometer light, turn signals etc, the total of the those loads could be added up to determine how much the system is producing.
ok so i have my headlight which is 25 and my taillight 25 also, could that be why i blew my headlight... because 10z got through?
would it hurt to put a 35watt halogen head light in?
Two wires coming out of the engine.
One goes to the AC regulator, and one to the ignition coil.
You apparently have a points bike. Without replacing the magneto/generator, I do not believe that you can just bolt up a CDI.
In order to install a battery, it also appears that you will need to rectify the output of the generator (using a rectifier). A voltage regulator is also recommended, too. Your regulator is labelled an A.C. Regulator, which means (to me) that it just regulates the Alternating Current output, and it does not rectify into DC (it is not necessary to produce DC to light up light bulbs - think your homes light bulbs)).
could that be why i blew my headlight?
As I have already stated, if you turn RPMs significantly higher than stock, the output voltage will also go up. Your regulator should take care of that - unless the regulator is toast.
My first guess with your system is that your regulator is bad.
would it hurt to put a 35watt halogen head light in?
Based on the schematic, you have enough capacity to run a 35 watt bulb.
have a regulator.
look at this one... this is my newest schematic
how can i tell if my regulator it is bad?
i really want to do this tomorrow if i can... so any help woud be appreciated.
check the schematic posted with this.
how can i tell if my regulator it is bad?
Based on the rating (12V), if voltage increases beyond 12V, then it is not regulating.
Just measure the voltage on the output side of the regulator. At low RPMs, the voltage will most likely be lower than 12V, and the voltage will rise as RPMs go up, but should get to a maximum level, which doesn't change even though RPMs keep going up.
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