I've done it on a Trac , Tomos A3 , couple Hondas , my AR50 cases and a couple lawnmowers B/S . Can't be any different than a Puch . Use welders putty around the area being built up to prevent case warpage and splatter (bearing recesses), Clean the area with only a clean stainless brush used for this purpose . Wash and degrease real well before brushing, the fumes from metal with grease on it does interfere with the argon bubble and makes it look like it has pits in the weld bead , it's oxidizing . Buildup the area gradually and I crisscross beads so there isn't any metal grain that expands in only one direction. Clean aluminum oxidizes instantly as soon as it's cleaned which is why I stainless wire brush just before before welding . Saltwater corrosion was a bear to work with , don't even think of acid washing , it sputters the metal because it works into the metal pores . Bottom line is clean clean clean - zero oil and grease . You are right about the fluidic charactoristics when using a Mig , but it's doable That's why Tig is easier , real confined heat to a small dot barely wider than the bead. There is a technique of using a Propane or Mapp torch to kinda braze or real high temp solder . It's available from Eastwood . I used this to stuff cases before I bought my Mig .