Ehm, it doesn't work like that.
You need a cylinder base and a cylindersleeve (The cylinderwall). The sleeve has to be inserted in the base under shrinktension (So the base is hot, sleeve is cold) or it has to be pressed. Both require a difference in size of about 0.05mm and in both ways the sleeve and base have to be absolutely 100% true.
If the base is too tight around the sleeve, the cylinder will just warp instantly when it gets hot, because the pressure can't go anywhere. It will sieze within a minute.
If the base is too wide, you get hot spots and cylinder will get soft siezes or overheat. The sleeve can even crack if the base is much too wide, because the pressure isn't evenly distributed then.
All and all, it's a lot of work. Best thing you can do is take a ruined cylinder and bore the old sleeve out of that for a base. There are shops where you can buy cast-iron cylinderwall-blanks. You could go there for the sleeve.
And talk to someone who knows about sleeve fitting about the tolerances b4 you put a new one in.