will any machine shop hone a 50 cc cylinder? how much does it typically cost?
will any machine shop hone a 50 cc cylinder? how much does it typically cost?
or can i just do it myslef? how do i do it?
At auto parts stores they sell Drill operated cylinder hones you just need to make sure that it is small enough. They aren't nearly as good as what a machine shop can do (sweet cross hatch) but it's cheap and fairly easy, just be careful not to take too much material off and you should use something to accurately measure the bore diameter.
ok. i'll probably just do that, then. and just douse it with a shitload of motor oil while doing this?
correct, smother everything with two-stroke oil and use a small engine, or brake cylinder hone. Just dont go all of the way to the bottom of the cylinder as the hone will get stuck in the collar of the cylinder. It doesnt take much, just 10 seconds of going up and down at a moderate pace will be just fine. By-the-way, what kind of motor is it? An iron cylinder (like a morini) or a chrome bore (like a puch). If its chrome you dont hone to hone it...
thats "dont WANT to hone it"
yes plated cylinders aren't to be honed
if you dont hone a chrome cylinder, the rings will never seat. buy a 'brake master cylinder hone' for like 7 bucks at your local auto parts store. you want the crosshatching (the scratches left by the hone) to intersect at 30 degree angles, so you should move in and out with the drill (drill press is preferred) at the right speed and turn the drill at the right speed to cut hatches.
it goes without saying you need new rings when you hone, and you need to hone when you put in new rings. the angles in the crosshatching hold oil and are critical to proper break-in.
I have to disagree. normally the cast iron cylinder wears into the harder rings. In a plated cylinder, the chrome is harder than the rings (they are special rings), so the rings wear into the cylinder. I have to say, I have never replaced rings on a chrome bore (7000 miles on my puch, and still pumping 140 psi) so I cant really speak from experience...
brake cylinder hones catch on ports and shatter into several pieces, especially if it's something you haven't done before.
Ball hones are a lot easier, and can be purchased in a size you need. most are listed in inches on ebay and you want to use cutting fluid, if you can get it. Oil, WD-40 and so on will work, but if you are going to use the right tool for the job, go all out.
I've gotten chrome bore bikes in before that had new rings put in and not honed, the rings WILL NOT seat without a hone. the bike will only go 25 and the owner brings it to me to fix. i've honed and re-ringed at least 15 low torque E-50's with excellent results. I have noticed that brand new (kit) cylinders dont have crosshatching.. i dont really get how that works, but know that when you have a cylinder re-chromed the machine shop hones them with a special diamond hone to get them within tolerance.
There is a really good article in a Tribology journal i read about a year ago about rings seating and breakin, if i can find it i'll scan it in.
i've yet to catch a brake hone in a port.. .but yes, if you want to spend the 30 bucks the ball hones are way better.
i should really make a video of this sometime, because i've tried to teach like 3 people to do it, and none of them have been able to do it, even with me standing there and giving directions. its really tricky to get right.
I have mentioned this before and it usually raises some hackles but I seat my rings in by stroking the piston with rings in the cylinder with a real fine abrasive, my current favorite is auto paint polishing compund. Not to be confused with the much more coarse rubbing compound. I add water to the compound to keep it fluid and use a homeade wood rod with a 12mm drilled in one end as a stroking rod. After quite a bit of stroking, maybe 1000 strokes you can look at the ring face and when it has a nice grey cast all around the ring with none of the original look to it you have a seated ring. The nikasil may look a little cloudy after this but I can assure you that it can be considered uneffected. You are going to have to clean all this thoroughly befor reassembly. I have also seated them just by running them and it just takes longer. Break in using the method I described usually takes 50 miles. A very fine abrasive is neccessary or the rings will not float in the piston as you stroke. A very fine abrasive I use also is called rottenstone and is used for rubbing fine woodworking finishes. It would be nice to build a reciprocating electrical stroking device for this. Then you would only have to occaisionally swab some more abrasive slurry in the bore to refresh the grit
When I need a hone, I take the cylinder to my friend at his motorcycle shop, and he uses a brake cylinder hone to do it. He's yet to catch it in a port.
Bought a hone from that same seller works great.
i have a puch maxi 2 speed. so i guess thats chrome plated. i plan on getting a new cylinder and rings pretty soon. so i can have it honed then? there doesnt seem to be a concensus. i have to to get it to seat, though, right?
Is there an alternative to using a cylinder hone tool? I'll probably never use it again.
Get a strip (about 1.5" wide) of emery cloth about a medium grit.
Use about a 5"-6" piece. Take a coat hanger, cut off the hook and bend it in the middle. Insert the middle of the emerycloth into the bent over end. Insert the other end in a drill. Insert the cloth end into the cylinder so that the grit is facing out on both ends. Lube with 2 stroke oil and run the drill while stroking the arrangement up and down.
Should only take about 30 seconds or so.
Check the cross-hatching pattern for effectiveness.
When you are satisfied with your work, clean everything really good with warm soapy water. Then dry the bore and coat with oil.
You constantly impress me.
Sounds like a plan.
I've been thinking about clamping some emery cloth with long tails between two halves of large round dowel, using enough length of emery cloth to fill the bore. I'll give it a go....
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