i have mine wired right. red is 5 wraps around spark plug cord, white is grounded, but i am getting crazy readings. says im idling at like 8k and i max out 20k rpms at like 1.4 throttle.
someone told me a i need a resistor spark plug? do you know what the NGK model number would be? thx.
me i have one and no you dont need a resistor plug
wire the white to a ground on the engine the red 4 FOUR times around the wire and that little Y part you have to secure well and the extra wire coil it up and tiewrap it somewhere out of the way and away from the coil
Are you running it on a cdi? cause that can fuck up the reading. CDI's send a group or spark pulses instead of one big dirty point break. My scitsu does the same thing if i hook it to a cdi bike.
Had one on a kitted Tomos and never did get it to work properly. ditched it. I thought they only went up to 9999 rpms. But put it on a single cylinder 4 stroke and it was fine. Do not run any of the wires with any others in parallel.
thx wari i will give that a shot. yeah brett no cdi on the bike right now.
hmm that didnt do it. i think its a little better, but its still maxing out at 20k wayyyy before i would be anywhere even remotely close to 20k. i wrapped it 4 times, moved all the excess away from the spark plug wire and grounded the white to one of the engine mounts. hmmmmmm
My puch will scramble my digital temp gauge at anything less than 3 feet away from the bike. That emi or whatever its a pain.
also, i dont have normal ignition. i have monza ignition which uses an internal high tension coil. you think that would be even better though cause less coil parts. hmmmm
off topic but when i would ride my streetmate my mp3 (zune) would shut off. I would be listening to it, then go and start my moped, and as i did (still holding my zune in my hand) it would freeze and shut off! wtf!!!
but i had the same problem trying to use a wireless, digital speedo with my white tomos, when the bike was off the speedo worked then as soon as i turned the bike on it stopped working.
yeah i know about the wireless thing, thats what made me think its interference or something.
hmmmmmm. maybe i should call tiny tach
you sure its not a 4 stroke tach?
if i understand it correctly that would make your readings be double what they really are.
if i dont well fuck you are back at square one
there is a lot of emf from the ignition for a 2 stroke ignition on mopeds but the emf is actually the breakdown in the coil that is producing the spark and that is what the 4 wraps of wire are supposed to sense. looks like you have to phone them 630-920-1300
bummer harold it works so good on the mobys
put a few wraps of electrical tape around the plug wire then wrap the red wire once around that, might need to tape it in place.
Next option is to get a resistor type plug br7hs.
Don't bother calling tiny tach they will tell you the same thing. I never did get the tiny tach working well with the cdi but got it working fine with points. Odd thing is it worked just fine with my aprilia and it has the identical cdi box as my puch.
gay, all i could find was a br8hs, pretty cold for my setup. will try the electrical tape tonight.
change the settings on the tach to pick up the pulse at a different time. since you can put it on any engine, whether it be 2 or 4 stroke, it had settings to allow for different fire timing. read the instructions, i think you need to put it on 180 degrees.
When i first installed on my CDI motobecane, i maxed out at like 19,0000 rpm and was like WHOAAAA, then i changed the settings and it was all good.
good call Peter, our bikes spark every 360* ( one full rotation). I think this is what they are set to by default but yours might be set wierd.
or maybe it was set to 180 and needs to be 360, i dunno... i just messed with it until it was correct.
if youre getting 20k rpm harold tell me your secrets
i put one on a stock 2 speed with a ngk b6hs, and it worked just fine. I think. it made sense. maybe you hot the worng one. because the 2 stroke and 4 stroke are just 1 model number off.
Same here. I have the B6hs plug and a stock cylinder and idled around 1200 and ripped right on up to 9999 and then went blank (which I assume means higher than 10K). Maybe you have the 4 stroke since mine doesn't seem to have more than 4 digits available and no way to show 20k?
There are two versions of the tinytach the newer one has a faster sample rate and shows rpm up to 19990.
I have the older one and it works fine on my derbi, moby and puch. i don't know what you're doing wrong, it all sounds like you have it set up the same as mine
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