I bought a #2 Magnum top end for my Maxi project. I wanted to know what you all think of them. How do they compare to the stock Puch top end? Will it give me more power? I plan to buy a Bullet exhaust for it.What do I need to do to use it on the Magnum cylinder.Please be specific. I may eventuall port match but for now I may just run it.Will the Magnum cylinder work ok with a 15mm carb.Will I need to change gears?
magnum top ends are like puch hi torque maxi top ends, but they have bigger fins and the exhuast is angled. a bullet won't fit on a magnum top end ujjnless you angle the mounting area to the same angle as the exhuast port mounting area. some pies will fit on them stock, i think a homoet 8p or 6p can't remeber witch.
Basically a hi torque maxi top end is better, the magnum ones are not worth the trouble.
someon with more puch knowledge than I can elaborate.
The homoet 8p has an angled header that will fit a magnum, but that pipe is total overkill for a stock magnum top end.
Your best bet is probably just buying a stock magnum pipe, which is pretty decent by itself.
Or ditch the magnum top end idea and get the hi torque maxi top end, which has a flat exhaust port and will allow you to mount up any of the puch performance pipes you'll find out there.
Or you can bring your pipe to an welder and have them cut and weld the header at the magnum angle (or heat and bend it for you). Some people on here have said exhaust shops can do it for cheapish. I just worry that doing this changes the dynamics of the pipe too much.
Bump. Anybody else have an opinion.Im still trying to decide.
I like the magnum cylinder better than the Hi Torque motor I had. They both started out as 2HP ZA50's. Added a bent biturbo to the magnum, 14mm carb and intake (38mph) The Hi Torque motor, 14mm carb and intake and a biturbo was at 36mph. The gearing was the same for these two motors. And the HiTQ motor was a low mileage motor. My next experiment with the magnum cylinder will be to use the factory magnum header cut and welded to the biturbo in place of the bent header section. Just to see if it helps. I really never liked the look of the heat bended pipe from the day I got it. So I want to see if I can gain anything there.
Then I will do some piston cutting (the intake port never fully opens on these) and cylinder porting (already have a Smitty ported cylinder waiting).
The hi-torque cylinders are just that. Because they have closed transfers instead of open ones like on the stock aluminum cylinders, they have better low end. However, the trade off is that they do not rev as high as a stock aluminum cylinder. The advantage of hi-torque cylinders is that they have a cast iron bore, which makes it easier to do things like chamfer the port edges, and even modify port shape and timing. On the aluminum cylinders, you have to worry about that plating in the cylinder bore flaking off if you get in there and start modifying things. I have no experience with magnum cylinders.
as the saying goes in sf "fuck a magnum"
Tim, I just sent you an e-mail.Everytime I try to post pics here, they always seem too big. I guess I have to read Harold's post on "Posting pics for Dummies"? Brent
I ran a stock magnum cylinder/head and pipe on my maxi for a while. It worked pretty well and hit 33ish
Another reason they are Hi Torque is cause the ports are farther down in the bore. A good formula for these is: High gearing like 18X40, modify head for 15:1 compression, and a mid range pipe like the Estoril. All to take advantage of the torque
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