So I just got off the phone from placing an new order of springs.
They should be here in around 2 weeks.
I decided to order more than I did last time so I should have springs for some time to come. Because of the quantity ordered and the fact that the sales price last time had to offset all the postage supplies, i can sell them for a good bit cheeper.
New price per springs is 3.50, there is no sliding scale it's just 3.50 a spring.
NICE dude.
I need some. Can I paypal you?
There probably isn't a need to call dibs, I guess there will be plenty to go around, but just in case, I'd like 3 genuine-issue Paz springs from this batch. And yeah, should we PayPal now?
How do these compare to the "Zap" Springs I've been hearing so much about?
Paz, having put a set of orange springs into my daily rider, which uses a two shoe stock clutch, I can tell you this. Even with them cranked down as far as they will go, the clutch engages only a little higher than stock springs will when also cranked all the way down. It could be that they are shorter though. Do you have a means of getting springs the same length as the stock two shoe springs, or if not, of a much higher compression resistance than the orange springs had?
Also, I realize that you're talking about the blue springs here, just thought I'd ask.
i can pazpal or paypaz you to pay for a set or two
david pay him in person u see him every monday u cleft it costs $$ to use paypal
Lighten your clutch for maximum awesomeness!
yup. Mine doesn't grab till about 25 or 30. Lightened and Paz springs. Sick!
how fast does ur shit wear out tho thats my concern, I had a 2 shoe tuned rather aggressively but it wore out in like a month.
elliot, I have been running the same clutch for atleast 750 miles now. I shaved off the bump on the three shoe, run 5w-20 way overfilled, and its lasting. Unfortunately, I think its going. One night I had a little incident where my clutch didnt want I slip at all, ad the bike wouldn't get going unless I hit a little downhill.
Turns out I lost my drain plug somehow. It has slowly been eating away since then. I think I can get a few more weeks out of it though.
So thats the trick. Shave off that little hump and use tons of fluid, and it should last a while.
If you remember I had a clutch eating monster for a minute and ever since I did these things, no more problems.
Would anybody be so kind as to post a picture of the "bump"?
I looked at mine but found no bump to shave off . . .
I think the bump they are talking about is on each pad, if you look at it sideways, there is a slight peak about in the middle of the pad, just file it down until its one continuous curve.
I'm assuming 5W-20 is more slippery, so it doesn't wear as much before it fully engages? Is that your reasoning for using it instead of ATF Type F?
posting from my new n95 woo!
careful craig, wouldn't want anyone to have to email simon and threaten him again.. :O
yeah if you mention MWH in a thread now it will be deleted.....................
that is unless you are talking about how super awesome his prices and business practices are.
YAY moped warehouse**************
wow...
well, it's better they get deleted than have him sue moped army.. i'm not sure what charges he wants to bring on, but i'm sure his lawyers have something, right?
so yeah, no bad mouthing mwh unless you want to see this site get closed down by lawyers!
not that any of us would badmouth chris or his upstanding business practices! mwh is the BEST moped shop in the WORLD!
ps, i wasn't kidding, i love mwh
Tommy, how much are your screws turned in on the clutch? I have a kickstart clutch drum which allows for better flow, and hopefully longer lasting clutch pads. Mine has run probably 500 miles on the paz springs, and maybe 1000s more before, many of those under high stress (its a 2 shoe), and it looks like new.
Mine was slipping up to like 20 or so, but I was hoping for more dramatic slipage, followed by an intense grab and crazy acceleration. Is that possible?
You get the drastic acceleration while it is slipping. I have pretty good 5-25, then a little bit of lag before my pipe really starts to hit between 40 and 45.
In a perfect world, the clutch will grab as your pipe hits its powerband and you will get the crazy grab and acceleration. With my pipe and gearing, I havent quite reached that point. Next clutch I have ideas to lighten it even more and hopefully get closer. Even stronger springs would help. Then you could lighten it les and get a more powerful grab, and really destroy the clutch. :)
And yes, 5w-20 is more slippy and lighter allowing it to slip more. So they say. I havent tried ATF but this stuff has worked well for me. Mobil one synthetic.
I am just now trying out PAZ Springs.
At 2.5 turns in it grabbed almost immediately and lagged up hills. I just turned them in 4 turns from flush and it seems to grab much later, which is better. But we'll find how well it works tonight.
The best my clutch ever worked and ripped like nothing else (with stock springs) is when all the pads have been eaten and the arm 'stops' have worn themselves out so the clutch can open more than it was meant to. From a dead stop it would rev all the way to the top and fly. Of course it was grinding metal on metal, and virtually all slip, so that sucked. I have about 5 sets of clutches, both 2 and 3 pads, that I have eaten that I am going to get professianlly refurbished with, hopefully, a newer stonger material that won't crumble. When that will actually happen, I'm not sure.
I should also mention I do have _the_ Clutch Eater, and the HPI CDI, which is tiny and revs out really quick.
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