Anybody used an undercoat/hardcoat/superpaint? What do you favour? I hate scratches but I'm not gonna ride her with kid gloves.
Anybody used an undercoat/hardcoat/superpaint? What do you favour? I hate scratches but I'm not gonna ride her with kid gloves.
huh?
I used por-15 on my gas tank and I think it was by far the best thing I could have done to it.
Mark,
I just bought a '78 50V just like that on Wed! Love it.
I was at the Por-15 web site the other day for fun - looks like great stuff! (Just don't let a bead of sweat drop in the paint can. If you do, throw it away. Wow.)
Did you do the 3-step process or jsut use the Por-15? How did you get it to coat the entire inside of the tank? How did you drain off the excess? What did you use to plug the petcock hole while doing this?
5 day drying time? As you can tell I'm kind of curious about the process. I know muriatic acid will clean out rust but it looks like por-15 keeps it from ever reappearing for life.
Come on up for the Ghost ride on Monday - I'll have my red one there.
Por15 isn't just for gas tanks.
I painted the belly of a '58 Caddillac with it when I worked as a gopher at a restoration shop.
I'm going to do my frame's sensitive bits in something tough like it, or Rhino-liner, Line-X etc to stop it from chipping. Motor area, chainstays, seatstays, sidepanel insides, center stand.
The current coating is enamel and it's brittle as hell.
Nice colour, but fragile.
bert , I just treated 2 tanks.....I bought a quart direct from the POR15 outlet on ebay for like 42 shipped....I used muriatic acid to clean the tank, rinsed it and treated it with phosphoric acid to etch the metal, rinsed it out with boiling water, and then stuck them in a 250degree oven for 15 mins to dry it completely (thats one of the most important things)..you can use a heat gun or hair dryer if the tank isnt removeable...then I used a old plastic cup to pour the stuff and resealed the can immediately. I treated one tank and dumped it directly into the other...then treated it....i put them on top of a old bown with the petcock down to drain. 70% of it drains back out and is wasted. a half pint can would have been plenty....i let it sit inside my music room for 4 days to dry......it looks awesome...its like a rock hard thin coat of metallic silver paint..Ive yet to fill the tanks yet. but im sure they will be fine..I used maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of the quart, but I have several more tanks to treat.anyway, hope that helped......
Sky, thanks for the input. I would think this is a lot easier on top tanks that you can remove! I'm looking at the tank on my Mobys and a Puch which are part of the frame.
I really don't feel like stripping the bikes down to do this - someone had mentioned getting down to the frame and hanging from the ceiling to be able to rotate and turn it upside down to get the whole tank coated.
Does the Por-15 just have to go over an area one time to work, rather than having to stay in contact for an extended period?
Red-Kote - google it.
Very good.
Red-Kote - Por-15 - either one - is there a good way to do a frame tank without taking it down to the frame to hang?
How big of holes will these fill? I have a Honda MB5 tank that has several rust pinholes.
I JB welded pin holes on a Maxi frame.
Then Red-Kote.
Worked like a charm.
Here is a link to a Red-Kote page...
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
It says it will fix pinhold leaks, but bigger than 1/32nd should be fixed and then coated.
Plusses - drying time, can be thinned with MEK for faster times and can recoat in an hour or so. You can pour it in and drain it out and re-use it for the second coat or second bike.
I ordered a quart here - $21 + shipping - (it was $34 on eBay)
and I plan on doing two bikes this winter, once riding season ends.
I por-15'd my magnum tank that was rusty as hell. It was a bitch, to be perfectly honest. Took about 6 hours total. Lots of tossing and shaking the damn thing all over. I can't imagine doing it to a tank that's in a frame. I just used duct tape to cover the holes. A little bit of the pretreat solvents leaked out, but the tank coat itself didn't. It worked pretty well, but not as well as I had hoped. I'd try another product next time and not drop the $45 or so dollars on another Por-15 kit. I've never tried anything else, so maybe it is the best.
Bert, taking the motor off a moby is so simple. it drops weight so you can spin around the frame.
I used the 3 step process that they sell to clean out gas tanks and I hung my moby up in my garage from the garage door tracks and through the opening for the tool compartment (which I removed). It allowed me to move and spin it around without having to fight the weight of it. It really helped out for getting to the hard to reach areas (ie the very top of the tank next to the handlebars).
I'll see about showing up to GR on monday but I have a feeling I am going to be in the darkroom all day.
Yeah, I think if I drop the engine and take the wheels off that should be sufficient - maybe even the seat. I'm going to be taking the engine off to kit it in the near future, so that might be a good time to do it. I don't have a bad rust problem, just seems like a good preventive measure.
Lets rename this thread. ;) "how to fix yo gastank"
Bert, the best preventative measure is to simply keep the gas tank near full if it is going to be sitting for some time. If you are going to full on winterize it then you should simply follow the wiki instructions.
You do not need to POR-15 coat a tank as a preventative measure.
Well, I'd probably use Red-Kote (which is now actually blue) because of the extended dry time with Por-15. I was interested because the new Moby looked a little rusty inside, and I figured "what the hell - something else to experience on a moped". This evening I cut my third drive chain to length, and I've gotten very good at that process. Given the amount of posts on here about rusty tanks I thought it would be a handy skill to have - another piece of the puzzle.
(I'm one of those older assholes with a job that lets me buy moped parts and stuff without a real second thought - thinking it's cheap compared to what I have to spend on cars. For example - I'm shelling out about $350 a month in car insurance on 3 cars - that's the problem when you have four kids on the policies - two of whom are 17.)
make them ride mopeds year round?
LOL! My son would I'm sure. Of the other three girls, one is at MSU Law and I'd bet she would ride one daily when it's warmer. The next would like one but she's a driving disaster - one of the reasons for my high rates. And the 17 year-old doesn't really seem interested. A buddy has a Honda Metropolitan I could pick up fairly cheap that I tried to interest her in - meh. (And it's not just because it's a scooter! LOL).
Now if I told them I was giving them mopeds and taking away car access - might not be so happy.
I still get a smile when I go out to the garage and there are three mopeds out there, when 3 months ago there were none.
My wife is going to try the other 50V today to see if she likes it, or will let me sell it to my friend.
por 15 has a long dry and cure time. When you paint somethign with it, you are supposed to keep it out of the sun and UV light for about a month. Read the literature- it's not the best paint for a top coat. Under fenders, inside frames, areas like that, there is nothing to beat it.
I did my flandria bermuda yesterday........it was a PITA.she had rust scale in the tank......50/50 muriatic acid and water first then rinsed and a quick rinse with phosphoric acid,,drained.a heat gun to dry that..rinse again with boiling water and drain then 30 mins with a heat gun shoved down the fill neck.....me and my sons took turns...it got smoking hot..then we treated it........I didnt bother removing anything we just kept flipping the bike over and around till we hit all sides and top and bottom several times then drained it....she looks good...I figure she should be ready to use in a few day......now my shoulder is acting up from manhandling a bike around......shoulda hung it with a nylon strap
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