So I dont have to tear down my motor, I need to know what the center to center rod length is for a Moby engine.
Anyone got any measurements or specs on the engines?
So I dont have to tear down my motor, I need to know what the center to center rod length is for a Moby engine.
Anyone got any measurements or specs on the engines?
I measured that one day, when I get home I will look, what are you doing anyways? simulation work? port timing?
Sounds like pipe program.
i want to run reliable above 6500 rpm so i want to get a head start on the figuring first before i take the moby off the road for the winter and do some work. just thinking if someone has a engine already apart then maybe they have some numbers to crunch. I will post what ever is going on in case someone is interested.
At 6300rpm i get 47mph or 76kph with the dual variator so i need to get a bit more spin out of the engine to break over 50 mph without kitting and stay reliable. right now the ports are cleaned up and i have a tillotson hl which is running pretty good
What the hell is this craziness?
wari wtf?
dual variator??
6300 rpm???
thats stock btw and goes about 30 on most mobys
the bike is reliable over 6300 rpm i run my engine all day well over that with a stock av7 crank
seriously confused here
it becomes un reliable when you off balence the crank aver 7 or 8000
and the crank will shear or snap
6500 is just short of 50 and about where i want to run it is 6800 that will give me about 50mph so i would have reserve to 7500 or 55mph, 8000 would gimme just over 60. wanna just run all day at 50 actually. right now the WARIator sticks a little and throws the belt when you back off the throttle to sharp so i have to sort that out first.
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What the hell is this craziness?
I am with Bret.
47 mph on a strait?...no wind at your back? no port work?...you gotta be kidding........
Wanna see pix.....dual variator or not .....some kart/outboard/marine or snowmobile carb doesn't really cut it. What kind of gearing are you running?
Show the goods!
Mike
Whataya got against pumper carbs? The twin HL progressive set up off an old Olympic would be interesting.
im skeptical.
I'm Jesse
That sounds like an intense set up. Please tell us more!
How did you make the back variator? What specs were you following and who made it for you? (unless you have some crazy machine shop at your access).
I was contemplating trying to rig up a rear variated pulley for my moby this winter.
lol wari WTF
again
don't ask questions u already know the answer too
bullshit
"its this long, and this big around,"
wow that takes me back to middle school
wari tell us more of this double variator thing you got going on
what RPM does the rear variator start to open, hows the split go, where did you find such a thing, or where is your machineshop and why are you building this crazy shit?
crackstar
i posted a picky of the wariator at the beginning of the month and no one spazzed so now what? Basically it is a 8.5 inch pulley that opens down to 7 inch by belt tension as the drive variator closes when the balls climb the ramp. also got a bit of an edge by shaving the movable half of the drive variator to push the belt cords to the edge when using a A belt. It needs a snubber instead of the darn double spring for the engine because the engine doesnt need to swivel but it does need some movement. it also chucks belts off like crazy because i havent got the springs figured out on the driven pulley quite right. if i slow down regular it is okay but if i get off the throttle quick the belt comes off.
wow. thats impressive. is that all you're running? everything else stock? and youre going 47?
thas awesome then,
lol i remember the pic now
crazy shit how does it work also don't worry about needing to beef up the motor its solid for ur application
now i want it
I've been playing with a similar design like yours in my head. One plate is stationary and one will move right, so do you have the side away form the bike move or the one closest to it. If it were the side closest that moved then the best would run true when it moves out which is what you want, but I didn't know if you were having clearance issues with the frame or not. And it looks like your setup uses multiple springs to hold tension on the cheek, I assume where each bolt is, am I right?
no i dont have the keys to the fabulous incredible freak machine shop of anyones dreams really. down the road a ways is a retired engineer and he has a farmer metal working shop in his barn and garage. i do my own machining thank you. the driven pulley i made from a double pulley and a single one that were in the barn. just machined off the extra parts of the double pulley and nade the sliding half with the second pulley. then bolted it together with some springs to pinch the halfs together. you are right jess the outside opens and closes same as the variator so that the belt stays straight. also i use multiple springs so the it opens and closes evenly around. i just got the idea from a post here and looking at our old motoski snowmobile. the motoski has the same sort of thing for a double variator so it was basically easy. well except it binds up and that is getting me a little mad. sort of limited rescources because i have zero dollars so all my parts are what ever i can find in the barn or where ever for free. the engine i am running stock i just cleaned up the ports and set the ignition back because stock it is too advanced. i am also trying to run the HL on the engine butmaybe i will have to skip the wariator for a while until i can get the new carb working right.
so back to my original question, i guess no one has any measurments or specs on the engines?
Yours is what is called a "speed sensing" secondary clutch. The binding you've run into is the primary issue with that set up. If your Moto-Ski was (I think) 1970 or newer, you may have noticed a helix on the secondary clutch. That type is a "torque sensing) unit that will stay at a lower gear ratio when under greater load, but easily shift up to the higher "gear" when load is low.
from my calculations it is 84.5mm rod length
well, i stand corrected. thats really really cool.
i dont have a helix to hold open the halfs of the driven pulley, i am thinking now that it binds from centrifical force of the belt because if you come off throttle slow it doesnt throw the belt or if you jam on the brakes it doesnt throw it only if you back off the throttle. have to find some more robust springs maybe.
thanx for the measurement jesse!
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Usual thing if rod centers aren't known is to use 2 x stroke.
Trying to figure out waht kind of setup Peter has on this outrageous-looking Moby...
thats a clutch pully
i have one as does eric elk... and peter thats it in mopedarmy
basically it adds a real clutch to a moby and removes it from the crankshaft to the pully so the belt is always spinning even at idle
the clutch doesn't engauge till 5000 rpm so u can sit at the stop light and rev like a motorcycle lol
also it puts u into the powerband b4 the bike starts to move so u are already at 5000 rpm at like 3 mph and are at like 6000 at 15 mph 7000 at 25 etc...
long story short the take off on a bike like peters or mine will throw you off the back and continue to pull like this up to a top speed of 55mph.
take off unmatched (nothing comes even close) by any moped i have ever encountered so far except peters and brets but those are also superbecanes with similar setups both would agree
but i think wari is really on to somthing and i would love to see her bike in action... if i could put that setup on my bike with multiple times the hp of her stock bike i can't imagin the top speed.
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