I have a 1982 PA50II and i can only get it to about 23-24 mph and thats all and the engine starts to sputter and then slow down and then it speeds back up and does it again. Can any one help i cleaned the carburetor very well my dad helped me (he's a honda auto mechanic). Please HELP!
clean the air filter, it might be running quite rich..pa50's are known to run rich but if the air filter is clogged this will make it even worse....clean the muffler also! (chuck the muffler on a bonfire to burn all the carbon out of it)
On the right hand side of the muffler there is a hex head capscrew (about 13-14mm). Remove it and poke around in there with a long screwdriver. This will clean out the internal baffle.
Noogie is correct, for whatever reason the bike is running too rich. Clean the air filter and the muffler and if this does not help, get back to us.
Ill try cleaning the muffler and see what happens it has a new air filter so I'm pretty sure thats not the problem.
Also, is the belt adjusted properly?
im not shure how should it be adjusted the manual i have doesnt give specifics on any thing.
Got the belt adjusted and its a little better at about 25 now but it still sputters at higher RPM my dad said it sounds like timing so i looked for the points where it says in the shop manual and there not there my dad said it was electronic ly timed but it doesn't say any thing about this in the manual its an 82 and the manual is for an 83 it was the only one available if any one could help that would be great.
The parts list for a 1982 PA50II shows that it is CDI.
You can still check timing, but I doubt it is off. I use a standard timing light, but connect the power leads of the timing light to a spare car battery. Otherwise, you could connect the timing light power cables to any car battery, and connect the timing light lead to the spark plug wire on the ped. There is a mark on the flywheel, and it should line up with the crankcase split line.
You should still try to clean out the muffler. While you can get some carbon out of the "access hole", the best way is to heat it up, either with a torch or in a grill, or in a bed of charcoal (search around and you will find this advice all throughout this site). If you wanted to see if this was the problem, you could take the muffler off, and give a quick ride - I would not ride very long without a muffler, though.
Also, you can check the exhaust port on the cylinder for carbon plugging, too.
Following that, then the carb could be cleaned.
the timing is fine. and its probably not even adjustable.
ever considered that the motor might not have the power to hit higher speeds? it is 25 years old.. could have crappy compression.
Ho K so here's what I did. I had the same problems. So. clean the muffler (hmm is there an echo in hur) Anyways then buy a speed kit (polini) makes one, its a 70cc kit. I say this cause it sounds like the piston rings are old and possabley broken. This it will replace all of that for about $200. An make you go faster. Plus you get to take the muffler off while you install the kit. (Fooor cleeeaning)
You can buy the kit here:
Seattlemopeds.com
tell'em "Wyatt sent yah"
Also here is a Pdf. of the parts and sevice catalog.
Service:
http://www.mopedarmy.com/mediawiki/images/1/1c/Honda_PA50_Service.pdf
Parts:
http://www.mopedarmy.com/mediawiki/images/f/f0/Honda_PA50_Parts.pdf
I hope this all helps...
Rusty clutches, worn belt.
check spark plug, it happens with mine (manual). The spark plug is good enough but at top revs sometimes splutters and after it splutters, picks up again.
Thats my advice :)
Thats great but im 16 i dont have 200 to throw at a moped i ride becaust its fun.
don't worry, i was gonna say don't bother with the kit...get it running properly first
so what have you done so far?
-checked air filter?
-cleaned muffler?
i cant imagine it is the belt or clutch or timing as the symptons sound exactly like its running rich...however, getting a new sparkplug often seems to have magical properties on mopeds....after that, it maybe worth checking the reeds as a last resort, they could be worn and fluttering
I still think spark plug...
jets for a hobbit... that makes me laugh
Ill get a new spark plug and see what happens ive herd that a smaller jet may help but the only smaller size i can find is #60 for a pa50I and i think thats to small it may seize form what ive read about down jetting.
the reason it does that could be that it the engine has restrictions or a govenor. just peek around on the net to find out how to tweak.i also have a hobbit and i noticed that exspecially wen i am going down hill..gets anoying..but good lick
Can't resist: good lick!
Yo you might Have a worn Pistion pull it out and look at it. takes about an hour. Is yor bike only going about 20mph or less?
I would not down jet until you get it running correctly.
And yes, there are more jet sizes for your Hobbit. From memory, it has a 78, the sizes going smaller are: 75, 72, 70, 68, 65, 62, 60. I've bought several of these sizes.
But . . . I'm certain that this is not your problem.
Throughout this thread, you've been giving a number of ideas to follow, some of which you haven't yet. Try to "free" ideas, and go from there. If you haven't even checked your compression, find someone who has a tool and do it. From there, I'd check/remove the carbon from the cylinder and muffler. Then I'd progress to the carb. I'm assuming that you've replaced the plug, have good spark, and have good compression. My recommendation for carbon first is only based on ease - it is easy to remove the muffler, heat it up, and to remove the carbon from the cylinder. The carb is an order of magnitude harder.
I cleaned the carb air filter and muffler and still no real speed gain. Im ordering new rings and gaskets along with a new plug and ill see what happens.
Have you checked your compression? What is the result? Anything above 114 psig is OK (this is the low end of what is acceptable).
Have you checked your variator? Does it move freely? With the left cover off, and the engine running on the stand, does it move and change the belt?
The variator is good thats one of the first things i checked my dad is bringing his compression tool home from work and were going to check it to day. i decarbonized the piston and head cover im replacing the gaskets and rings when i get them any one know any where i can get these parts at. my local parts stool is retarded and cant find them in ther parts book.
Well, I would try westernhillshondayamaha.com.
A standard set of rings should be less than $30, if they have some.
Honda Part Number is 13010-GF8-306.
Now, whether or not you need a "standard" set, I can't tell you. Assuming your cylinder has never been bored out, which it most likely has not, you should be OK.
I vaguely recall seeing rings on ebay in the past, did a search today, didn't find any.
Parts for PA50II
The best source for parts that I have found for Honda parts, bar none, is CMS Holland.
These people can get just about anything you want. Get to their website by searching for CMS Holland.
Once you're there, follow the prompts to Honda followed by Motorcycles. The PA50 mopeds are not listed under scooters, but motorcycles. Once you're at Motorcycles, you have to click on the page numbers until you get to the PA50II. The Honda model letters and numbers are alphabetical, so PA is several pages in.
Once you click on PA50 II for your year, you'll get a complete parts list with original Honda part numbers.
The PA50's were popular for a while in Europe. They were assembled in Belgium. Of course the biggest problem with them was getting to the carburetor. You have to separate the rear of the bike from the front. It's a job, but, like cleaning and re-assembling any machine, once you've done two or three times, you get the hang of it.
If you've done the spark plug, air filter, muffler and serviced the CVT, and still have no performance near 30 mph, I'd definitely move on to the carb. Even after you split the bike, it's still a pain to extract the carb from where it lives. Take your time, and watch out for that spring coil that's wrapped around the rubber boot on the carb intake. It can take flight if you aren't careful.
Removing the reed plate is about the easiest way to get the carb out of the engine frame. Be prepared to do some serious twisting of screws. The reed plate screws are ususally in very tight. Don't hurry to remove the Phillips head screws here. They are in tight, and can easily get their heads stripped. If you are successful in removing all four of them, I recommend you go to a well-equipped hardware store that carries a full line of metric nuts and bolts. Get 6mm stainless Allen head bolts and replace the Phlllips head screws with them. You'll be glad you did if you ever have to get in there again. By removing the reed plate body, still attached to the carb, you do not have the problem of trying to reach down into the carb area to remove the two 10mm nuts holding the carb to the reed plate intake manifold.
After the carb is out, and cleaned, be sure to note the orientation of the float bowl. It is actually possible to put it on the carb body 180 degrees out. If you get it wrong, the engine will still run, but not well, because the float will stick, and other stuff. Who knows, maybe your float bowl is on "backwards" right now, and that may be why your ped is running, but poorly. Later.
Good luck.
J. T. in Missouri
Im not shure how exactly the belt should be adjusted and how else i need to adjust the cvt can someone tell me or give me a site that can.
You move the rear wheel front to back so that the belt rides inside the rear pulley. A measurement is provided in the manual, and it says that from the outer edge of the pulley, the top of the belt should be 2mm (from memory) below that.
This information is in the service manual that can be downloaded for free, by the way. It has a good picture of it, too.
got the engine running and it hists full rpm on the stand but i cant break 25 on a flat. any one know what it could be the belt is adjusted and the what not i cant figure it out.
One more thought.
There is a "tube" to the left of the carb. It is actually a "muffler" for the intake air. Go here:
Then, go to SWINGARM @ AIR CLEANER @ MUFFLER, it is item number 4.
Anyway, I just found that one of the three holes in my tube was half closed by a spider nest/web thing. I would have never thought to check this for plugging, but maybe it is worth your while to check it.
The downside - you may have to remove the carb (again) to get access to it. I've pulled one out with the carb in, but haven't ever tried to put it back in unless the bike was apart.
Good luck!
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: