MOPED ARMY

kirk,

I ordered it through Kevin at Seattle mopeds for $170ish, It was a little tricky to get the timing right on it but after looking at that page I managed to have it run good and strong with the first attempt to do the timing correct. I used a buzzetti timing tool to time it and still think it might be a ~.2mm off, but I have a magnetic base and a dial indicator that I will soon use to find the TDC of the piston. That should allow me to adjust it to exactly 1.2mm and to play with the timing in .1mm increments. I mostly wanted to have this posted so if people are trying to find info on how to install and setup this cdi kit in the future they can search for it. Oh I should add this is all the wiring I pulled out of the bike so far and I'm working on replacing with just a few wires.

If you look at the www.ventilxp.com page it shows a photo of them lining it up with tail end of the metal strip, which does seem to make sense to me when it comes to the instructions in the kit. "With the assembly of the rotor, to align the arriere(behind, backwards) this one (Z) center of the sensor (Y)." I'm assuming they mean (Z)=metal strip and the (Y)=sensor. Of course in the instructions on that ventilxp page they are actually removing the key in the crank so they can increase the the timing beyond the .9mm stock timing.

-Naz

I have owned a few peugeots, but its been a long time since i messed with these old peds. Just getting back into it no after 20yrs just for the sake of messing around.

Is this something that has become a common problem on the old peugeots? or can they be just as reliable as i remember them being when i was a kid if you just replace the stock stuff and give the wires a good going over?

Alot of my friends had pugs when we were kids too and i dont recall any of us ever having electrical problems...but they were no older that 10 yrs old then.....now we are messing with 30yr old stuff so i could see there being some issues.

None of the wiring on my current pug has ever been messed with. It only has 1200 original miles on it so i'm hoping it is all still in good order.

hmm. maybe we translated wrong. that's why we tried different timing settings till we found what we liked. not sure where the sensor would have ended up at 0.9mm though. could be that 0.9mm at the edge might be the same as 1.4mm at the center. though im not sure which edge you or the instructions are referring to (front or back) but the center makes more sense to me as a reference point since its hard to get confused.

also on your www.ventilxp.com page it looks like they are aligning both back edges of the sensor and the metal strip. i know the instructions said something about the middle of something. doesnt really matter, just need a repeatable measuring system. use whatever works for you. if you're putting a CDI on i would imagine you are comfortable setting the timing so do it however.

i dont mean you as in you Mike. thats to all the hypothetical yous reading and all that

If you do add more coils, which is a totally viable and awesome plan, you should regulate it with a bridge rectifier and a battery. Then you can power a car headlight if you want to.

The zener diode setups just limit the voltage, if that's what your talking about. A bridge rectifier will convert it into DC, and then you use a battery to limit the voltage.

It's already DC, it's a magneto not an alternator, if it weren't DC you wouldn't be able to regulate it with a Zener diode.

A full bridge rectifier converts AC to DC fully, though you still need a cap and some resistance to remove all the ripple from the AC. You can build a full bride out of some diodes, they are pretty simple devices. Sometimes you will find a half bridge rectifiers (1 diode vs 4 diodes of full bridge) that will partially smooths the AC though you still have half of the wave spiking vs a full sine wave of the incoming AC. But when it comes to a full-bridge rectifier I usually find it easier to just buy a integrated rectifier and actually have small stock of them sitting around anyways. Hopefully that answers the question?

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/4.html

-Naz

arran, just stop posting dude.

Another project I wondering about, http://tinyurl.com/2sdjel little cdi box like this or probably any number of ones out there and then using a ford VR sensor. It would be the same input as http://tinyurl.com/2lfns8 like this to feed the trigger pulse to the cdi box which then could fire the coil. At this point you could run a performance cdi as well if you wanted to be able to tune your ignition curves on your bike. Still need to have a coil that is able to generate higher voltages to supply the cdi system but really it's not very many items.

-Naz

A bridge rectifier does NOT convert AC input to DC output. What it DOES do is "rectify" the negative half of the sine wave. For this, it is known as a "full wave rectifier." Simpler setups, like using a single diode, are known as "half wave rectifiers," since the negative half of the wave is "lost."

To make something that looks like DC output, you need a big capacitor. A battery might work I guess, but I've never heard of anyone doing that.

(I'm an electrical engineer, btw)

I am not into zeners, just regular diodes

I was reflecting from my more primitive experience with car alternators that make DC with diodes. But I can understand your explanation that the DC out of them is not a flat line DC but pulses a bit. Did I get that right?

Yeah pretty much that sums it up. There is fair amount of noise on the DC lines in cars anyways, most of the electronics do not care that much about the noise or ripple itself . The few items that do care use there own set of regulators/electronics to clean up the incoming power.

-Naz