MOPED ARMY

Richard, there is a center tapped ground on that light coil. That's why he sees 1.1Ω from each wire to frame with nothing else connected.

If it it required an external ground both of those measurements would read as an open circuit.

Per the wiring diagram already linked in this thread, the green wire powers the brake light (via the brake lever switches; they should be normally closed type); the black wire powers the head light, tail light, and horn.

Regarding the bike running with the switch off, the contacts may be corroded / dirty. The stop switch grounds the ignition coil, and if there's a poor connection there it'll just run. A little isopropyl alcohol on an old toothbrush will clean 'em right up.

When you put 6V on the brake / tail light, how did you connect it? The bulb should have two terminals on the bottom, and a ground terminal around the base.

If you connected 6V across the two terminals on the bottom, then it makes sense that both filaments lit up, as they are effectively in series. You should be able to connect 6V from either terminal to frame ground and light up one filament at a time.

Assuming there are no wiring errors on the bike, that is. :)

Pm me for my cell number. With your meter and a couple of jumper leads, we can dive into mess. AC voltage needs a good clean ground. Rust, paint and oil must be removed, to have a good ground. I have seen the engine mounting bolts, after removing them, rusted and white rust. That isn't a good ground and will give you trouble.

Whoop, there it is! After cleaning up the connections and taking apart the switches the lights are glowing and the kill switch is killing.

Ordered gaskets and rings from Treats so I will see you all in my next thread.

Thanks to all for your help.

Damn. I was hoping our next move was to start uncoiling copper wire to find out where it's

You should clean and tighten every connection .