MOPED ARMY

Looks like you have a good Moby and just need to put some time and money into it. Good luck with your project Ryan.

Restored the rear brake control / choke / on-off / horn assy. today as well as fitting front and rear brake cables. There is a before and after photo. Also the ckoke lever was bent so I straightened that while I had it apart.

There are some modifications required to the Treats Puch cable sets in order to complete the installation. On the front brake setup, I drilled the top cable adjuster a little larger as the metal end of the cable would not fit in, now it's good. Had to cut off the big knarp on the one end of the inner cable after soldering the cable to keep it together. I used the small end to go in the brake lever. Also had to cut off about 3" of cable outer as it was too long. Fit everything together and used a big knarp on the frt. brake arm to lock the cable down. Works as it should now. (edited)

I also modified the throttle tube to allow for the extra travel required when using a SHA15. Lengthened the slot 2.5mm with a Dremel carbide bit and not the stone bit shown. Deburred everything and tested operation. If I had gone any more, I think the cable slider would have popped out of the throttle housing. Installed everything on the bars and tested operation again, seems smooth. I used dry graphite to lube all the throttle parts.

So, left and right handlebar controls are finished now and a new set of repro Motobecane grips installed as these were the only ones I could find with a 4" inside depth.

On to the engine next.

First area to clean is your gas tank. Gas tanks like to rust when siitting.

The AV7 engine is apart and waiting for final assy. and while I was looking over some of my new replacement parts, I noticed that the new Malossi intake manifold that Treats sent with the Dellorto 15 SHA kit is a different port configuration than mine.

My engine has the smaller offset port and this manifold has a large straight port.

Do I have the wrong manifold or do I make it work on my engine?

I put some layout dye on the cylinder port and there is a light scratch mark where the Mallosi opening ends.

Looks like you could use a set of tires ;-) You have a good bike to work with, as long as you are enjoying yourself, that's all that matters.

I mean sure, but it is a tool everyone has around and it is close enough. I think more damage is done to these Novi nuts by people not realizing they are reverse threaded.

Best 20 bucks ever spent on a cheap tool was this flywheel holder purchased on Ebay. Between this and my 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter was able to take that Novi nut right off, no heat required and there is no visible damage to the Novi nut. I will be replacing this nut with the upgraded hex sided nut that Treats sells anyways.

The freshly rebuilt engine (new rings, gaskets, bearings and seals) has been installed in the frame and next up I will be installing the magneto with new points and condenser. A new Variator clutch and drive belt have also been purchased.

I fabricated a wrist pin pusher from materials I had around the shop. I found a nylon piece which I think was some kind of standoff or something and with a little trimming the small end fits right in the center of the wrist pin with the wider shoulder sitting squarely on the pin. Finger pressure turning the bolt slides the pin in or out with ease.

Thank you Mike. I appreciate your interest and help with some of my questions.

I’ll give you this one, but you gotta start doing your research. A 4L320 or 17320 will work. You can find all of this information if you do a search on this site or go to Treats.

Ryan, I bought the Gates toothed AX30 belt from The Moped Junkyard. Obviously a different number than what Mike gave you so hopefully I have the correct one too.

Not a lot of work got done over Christmas, just too darn cold in the garage. Anyways, today I installed the new variator, drive belt and chain. Those little snap rings deep in the variator are fun but I got them in there. I used the cable adjuster that came with the rear brake cable and installed it in the brake backing plate cable retainer, that way I will not have to turn out the handlebar adjuster as the cable and shoes wear.

There is about a 5/16" gap between the tensioner springs and the spring stop after I installed the belt. I believe that should be correct to allow for forward movement of the engine as the belt wears.

Question: the drive pulley and the variator seem to be in good alignment but how do you adjust alignment if they were off, what is the procedure?

You could adjust your engine mount bushings if your belt line isn’t good.

I'm going to assume you're pretty close to having things right for the alignment of your variator with the drive pulley given your pictures--you have it in there using the original engine bolt, right? Ideally, you measure spacing beforehand of your new motor mounts (comfort blocks) so the offset is as it was for the original setup. If not, you can use washers to move the engine side de-to-side if you have space--too much space between the mounts/comfort blocks can be challenging. Sucks big time having to fumble around with a dangling engine and a bunch of washers on the bolt. Note that you can tap out the bushings in the head if needed to remove material from it when the variator side won't move over far enough outboard (and if you don't want to re-press the comfort blocks. BTW, pretty sure Treats has replacement thicker/thinner head bushings). The best solution I have seen was posted here--use a spare or damaged head by itself to set things up in the frame before hanging the complete engine. Let us know the status of things and show pictures