MOPED ARMY

Hey Ryan,

A few more photos of the teardown and clean up of parts. I will not be using the stock Gurtner carb and have purchased a Dellorto SHA 15 and the new manifold. The speedo drive unit was trashed and frozen solid and the speedo was stuck. A new drive was purchased and the speedo taken apart and cleaned and after a good number of days soaking the lower half in Acetone and then using Breakfree CLP, it spins freely now. I cleaned all the carbon out of the muffler as well as a mud wasp nest in the tail pipe and surprisingly the chrome polished up like new. All the cables will be replaced as well as a new Variator, drive belt, tires and tubes.

The second thing he wrote :

"> Bob Chesarek wrote:

And his is variated unlike yours.

Spent a few weeks on degreasing, rust removal, cleaning and polishing chrome, touching up paint and painting some parts that were scratched up. I painted the center stand silver to brighten it up a bit. Boxes full of bagged and tagged parts to go over.

Having the same problem a lot of you have had removing the fly wheel. Since the engine is off the bike, there really isn't any way to hold it still. I have a 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/8" reducer that I tried to use along with the hose clamp around the fly wheel and a block of wood. No luck. Gonna see if a neighbor has a 3/8" impact driver and that along with heat on the nut and penetrate oil will get the job done.

The table full of cleaned parts is in my downstairs game room which we don't use any more. It's a great place to keep finished parts out of harms way. The tool box covers look really bad, lots of pits so I may end up painting them. The fender braces, wheels, package rack, front fender rods and the handlebars cleaned up much better.

I polished the stainless front fender on the buffing wheel and it looks like new.

The forks and front wheel are back on the bike as I am into reassembly this week.

Don’t forget the Novi nut is reverse threaded.

Looking fabulous , Bob . ;)

Thanks much PD!

For what it’s worth in 2 years playing with these things, including some time as a mechanic at 1977 Mopeds back in the day, I’ve only see a piston stop ruin someone’s day like once. Rope in the spark plug hole as a piston stop, real bad idea.

Best of luck on this, and reach out if you have any questions.

Just a 3/8” ratchet and a good ol’ hingggfffph. I would stay clear of heat in this instance. Maybe a few drops of penetrating oil to see why that gets you and then. You can also try the tighten it a touch to see if you can get things moving. An impact would do alright, but I didn’t have one until recently. A whack on the end of the ratchet with mallet is essentially the same thing while being slightly less aggressive. Jerk they call that, 3rd derivative of position…#PhysicsShit

good to know! because everyone keeps calling mine a "piece of shit"! I myself am getting mine running (100% ripping) first, and then i will worry about cosmetics.

X3

Thanks for the complements guys.

Today I restored the stuck and oxidized stock headlight switch. The center movable contact bar had a crack at one end but I repaired / reinforced it with epoxy. Polished all the contacts and applied silicone dielectric grease on the contacts as well as the slider and reassembled. Tested with a meter after installation back in the headlight bucket and it slides and functions as new.

Added a shot of the rear wheel. Looking pretty nice!

Thanks Ryan!

and this was before: