MOPED ARMY

Cheap ???

Remember , you get what you pay for .

Use Caswell's or RedKote . Follow the instructions to the T . No short cuts .

I went on Amazon, it looks like the kit to get probably is 'Caswell'.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722QRPB7/

That's a "deluxe" kit - this is the one you're going to want, it has the sealer but there's the extra 'masking liquid' in there which is used to temporarily patch breaches (and that hole in your tank is a BREACH!) so that the sealer will stay in the tank. The masking liquid will provide a surface for the sealer to attach to; then after the sealer is cured, the procedure is to remove the temporary mask.

It looked like from your photos that the patch you riveted on would have been a good start to mask that huge hole. The only thing I might have suggested is; either use a body-working spoon and hammer, to straighten out the edges of the breach - OR - remove the rough edges of the breach, and cut them out, or grind them out, to make the edges tidy, so it can be repaired. Then put the mask over that area; but with a hole that large, you need that patch that you made; I'd say you can use duct tape too, with the masking liquid over it to prevent the sealer from leaking out. Remember your patch could be temporary or permanent, but the masking liquid is temporary and after the sealing is cured, it's to be removed. I thought your patch looked kind of neat, and it appeared that you could leave it on after sealing, if you liked its appearance. If you remove all the masking, you could simply sand and paint over the sealing and it should become invisible.

The main issue with the sealer, in your specific case, is, the sealing process requires that the tank be rotated in all directions to ensure that the sealer can get to every corner of the tank. Your tank is part of the entire frame. So you have to figure out a way to rotate the entire frame with the sealing liquid inside the tank. You're probably going to have to either strip the frame and hang it up somewhere that will allow that. I don't think you'd want to try anything else (like cutting the frame away from the tank portion, sealing the tank, and welding the frame back together after the tank is sealed).

The sealing kit seems to include more than enough for one coat of a three gallon tank, and it seems to me like you're better off using more than one coat in some cases, where there's a lot of internal damage. You should test the repair out with some solvent or even water before you put fuel back in the repaired tank.

I found a few videos on YouTube, most of them are between 15-20 minutes long. There's also a playlist, four parts, of a repair process, each part is an average of 8-9 minutes, with the longest being under 13 minutes.

This kit costs $60. It seems like the offer you got to pick up a donor frame may be almost as much work as stripping the frame you have and repairing the tank. Either way you have to strip the frame. You could do both. Use the donor frame as a rider while you repair the tank on the original.

I found it kind of interesting. The epoxy sealer seals hard and cures with some flexibility. The trick is to get the sealer to flow inside the surface of the tank, over every internal surface. Which requires that the user turn and rotate the tank while the sealer is still liquid, before it solidifies. When your frame and tank are integrated, this makes it very, very, interesting. How are you going to flip that entire frame around to get the sealer to cover everything? Maybe do one side first then do the other side? That huge breach should be the priority of course.

Good luck with it. Keep us updated!

Playlist (five videos):

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL91A3D70222F080AF

Two other videos (by same content creator):

בס'ד

Make sure to seal the tank first then paint!

I use por15 and vinegar!

The vinegar might eat away at the jbweld but don’t worry to much about it, i usually get away with sealing the tank the reapplying jbweld! Use the quick set jbweld you’ll save a lot of time!

The por15 will expand so don’t be surprised if the pin holes look like expansion foam just sand them down! Two coats of tank sealer especially with jbweld is not a bad idea, it might save your ass from a really Bad situation!

The best motorcycle fire goes to billy lane hands down! (edited)

You’re totally obviously wrong.

Stop bullshitting

Douglas Mackinnon wrote:

D

I managed to solder steel mounting brackets to brass radiator tanks without much trouble so I dont see why this would be any different.

Uhh, the most commonly used solder alloys melt at like 360°F

Aluminum melts at 1221°F

I do see he said he tried hard silver solder, my bad there.

Tin based solder (leaded or lead free) absolutely will stick to steel if the surface is clean and you use an acid-based flux. Hell, you can even solder galvanized if you're good.

If you go the jbweld route. Get the water weld version of jbweld. It is kind of like a putty and it works well on gas tanks. I know someone who has had it on a cimatti tank for over a decade.

Yes I will use on if my shampoo contraption Einstein

You just heat the steel with propane, then rub solder on it. If it doesn’t melt heat more. It’s about as easy as possible.

Lol. Are you serious? Silver bearing solder, electrical solder, they all stick to steel very well. Again with the bullshit I guess

Braze the fucker with brass!!

What flux are you using?

It’s a bad idea

Just like taking any advice you give as facts lol

I’m gonna make a videooooooo with a big hole soldered up on a tank to put this issue to bed.

You won’t believe how easy it is. For a hole, cut a piece of sheet just a tad bigger than said hole. Then clean the areas well, remove all paint.

Then tin the tank and tin the piece of sheet metal separately before you attach together. Then place the disc on the tinned hole then just melt em together. It’s that easy

Hell yeah Jbot! I want to learn new things and it’s not like I made it worse. I just want to ride the thing and if it leaks I can fix it proper.