> Kevin Hurt wrote:
> Link to cheap sealer? ...
I went on Amazon, it looks like the kit to get probably is 'Caswell'.
That's a "deluxe" kit - this is the one you're going to want, it has the sealer but there's the extra 'masking liquid' in there which is used to temporarily patch breaches (and that hole in your tank is a BREACH!) so that the sealer will stay in the tank. The masking liquid will provide a surface for the sealer to attach to; then after the sealer is cured, the procedure is to remove the temporary mask.
It looked like from your photos that the patch you riveted on would have been a good start to mask that huge hole. The only thing I might have suggested is; either use a body-working spoon and hammer, to straighten out the edges of the breach - OR - remove the rough edges of the breach, and cut them out, or grind them out, to make the edges tidy, so it can be repaired. Then put the mask over that area; but with a hole that large, you need that patch that you made; I'd say you can use duct tape too, with the masking liquid over it to prevent the sealer from leaking out. Remember your patch could be temporary or permanent, but the masking liquid is temporary and after the sealing is cured, it's to be removed. I thought your patch looked kind of neat, and it appeared that you could leave it on after sealing, if you liked its appearance. If you remove all the masking, you could simply sand and paint over the sealing and it should become invisible.
The main issue with the sealer, in your specific case, is, the sealing process requires that the tank be rotated in all directions to ensure that the sealer can get to every corner of the tank. Your tank is part of the entire frame. So you have to figure out a way to rotate the entire frame with the sealing liquid inside the tank. You're probably going to have to either strip the frame and hang it up somewhere that will allow that. I don't think you'd want to try anything else (like cutting the frame away from the tank portion, sealing the tank, and welding the frame back together after the tank is sealed).
The sealing kit seems to include more than enough for one coat of a three gallon tank, and it seems to me like you're better off using more than one coat in some cases, where there's a lot of internal damage. You should test the repair out with some solvent or even water before you put fuel back in the repaired tank.
I found a few videos on YouTube, most of them are between 15-20 minutes long. There's also a playlist, four parts, of a repair process, each part is an average of 8-9 minutes, with the longest being under 13 minutes.
This kit costs $60. It seems like the offer you got to pick up a donor frame may be almost as much work as stripping the frame you have and repairing the tank. Either way you have to strip the frame. You could do both. Use the donor frame as a rider while you repair the tank on the original.
I found it kind of interesting. The epoxy sealer seals hard and cures with some flexibility. The trick is to get the sealer to flow inside the surface of the tank, over every internal surface. Which requires that the user turn and rotate the tank while the sealer is still liquid, before it solidifies. When your frame and tank are integrated, this makes it very, very, interesting. How are you going to flip that entire frame around to get the sealer to cover everything? Maybe do one side first then do the other side? That huge breach should be the priority of course.
Good luck with it. Keep us updated!
Playlist (five videos):
Two other videos (by same content creator):