I’m incompetent

So my 12 year old just got this bike for just putting around the neighborhood two days ago. Today he’d been riding it around and then couldn’t start it. I found that the spark plug had gotten loose, tightened it, and it started and ran again. I’m using 40:1 fresh, from Home Depot. Well, the bike is “hot rodded” whatever that means and it doesn’t idle, you have to give it a little gas all the time. I started to adjust the idle (I think it’s the screw closest to the inside on the top of the carb but I’m not sure.) now the bike won’t start. We accidentally let the bike sit an hour without turning the fuel off and it leaked out from the carb on to the floor of the garage. Now we keep on trying to start it and it won’t start and then fuel keep leaking out of the carb. I’m a super novice and can’t find much of any pics or videos concerning a 1997 Sprint A35 on the internet. Help. Anything……..it’s also hard because I don’t know the words that mean the things………

I do have the A35 manual but that’s basically worthless.

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Re: I’m incompetent

Posting a few more pics

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Re: I’m incompetent

your carburetor is leaking creating a super rich condition that is making the bike impossible to start, as well as leaving a puddle of gasoline on the floor.

buy a new Dellorto brand SHA carburetor and enjoy. do not buy a knockoff.

your bike will and son will thank you.

Re: I’m incompetent

Here is the method that I employ to clear a flooded engine.

1. Ignition off

2. Fuel tap off

3. If possible, drain the carb float bowl

4. Remove the spark plug

5. Twist the throttle all the way open and keep it open

6. Kick the kickstarter 20 to 30 times to pump the excess fuel out of the crankcase and into the muffler

7. Make sure the spark plug is clean and dry and reinstall it

8. Fuel tap back on (wait a little bit for the bowl to fill if it was empty)

9. Ignition on

10. Try kickstarting the bike your normal way

Re: I’m incompetent

Thank you so much. How do I drain the “float bowl” 😬

Re: I’m incompetent

> Mike Massa wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Thank you so much. How do I drain the “float bowl” 😬

This tutorial might help:

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Tomos_A3_Carb_Cleaning_(Dellorto)

Re: I’m incompetent

You aren't incompetent!! You are off to an amazing start, you actually have a moped and not a scooter!!

Re: I’m incompetent

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Fred's_Guide is also a useful troubleshooting guide (ignore the discussion about points, your bike has a CDI ignition)

Re: I’m incompetent

EH 📣FCC of the QCB /

> b to the eff wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Fred's_Guide is also a useful

> troubleshooting guide (ignore the discussion about points, your bike has

> a CDI ignition)

Truth!

Re: I’m incompetent

Please read the Fred's tuning guide mentioned above. It really really helps you understand what is going on in a 2t engine. That and the 2 stroke tuners guide book are must reads.

Please post up any new questions or issues you have but the wiki should have lots of great info about your bike.

You can definitely clean and rebuild the carb you have, but if you do get a new carb just see what jet is in your current carb and then buy a range of jets. If your spark plug is black and oily then grab a number or two smaller, but for sure a few numbers going up.

Most of all be sure to understand mopeds. And make sure your son understands mopeds. Constant maintenance is required on these. But minimal work keeps them running forever. We are all here to help in the army.

Re: I’m incompetent

Oh yeah. Stop using premixed gas from home Depot. Next time you are there get yourself a 2 gallon gas can and a bottle of 2t oil. They sell some with an easy to measure dispensing top. Makes it super easy.

Not sure why I don't trust the pre mixed cans of gas. But I don't. Maybe for my weed whacker, but not my moped.

Re: I’m incompetent

Success! Starts every time. Thank you so much. Replaced the plug too and it’s going.

Last question. I know the the dude I bought the bike from says it’s hotrodded or some BS but it doesn’t idle. It sounds like it’s close to idle but won’t hold. I turned the idle screw on the side all the way in till it won’t go anymore but no dice. Any cool enumerated lists for fixing that as well? 😬

Re: I’m incompetent

you could replace the float and the needle valve and clean the needle seat, but for the peace of mind that a new carburetor for $70 can buy you, i would recommend buying a new dellorto 14:12 or 15:15 sha

Re: I’m incompetent

> Mike Massa wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Success! Starts every time. Thank you so much. Replaced the plug

> too and it’s going.

What did you do?

Re: I’m incompetent

A brand new $70 carb is not going to work better than a clean rebuilt carb. Or, rarely will it.

To the OP: there could be lots and lots of reasons it won't idle. If the carb is clean and has no leaks, it could be an air leak at the carb connection, or at the crank seal. It could also be jetted incorrectly if the previous owner "hot rodded" it.

That phrase is really unhelpful, as I'm sure you know. There are literally dozens of things that can be done to improve these bikes. Any one of which could be called "hotrodding". There are also dozens of completely stupid mods that people do to mopeds believing that they're magically going to create 100hp and 70mph. And those mods often make the bike run worse, if they have any effect at all.

Your best bet is to figure out what stock was, try to match that, and then go from there.

Unfortunately, you're going to have to read bunches of stuff in the wiki, or Myrons Moped website, ask bunches of questions, get bunches of answers to sift, and then just end up having to go by trial and error until you figure it out.

Fortunately for you, all of that is the good stuff about mopeds. It'll be a learning process that makes you feel good when you succeed (and like crap when you fail). It'll be how you make moped friends in the community. It'll be how you get addicted and end up with 10 in your garage and a $4000 wish list on treatland.

Welcome to mopeds. (edited)

Re: I’m incompetent

A bike with a SHA that won't idle? PROBABLY just needs to have the carb cleaned. There are tiny holes in the emulsion tube through which fuel flows at idle, and they clog up super easily.

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Carb_Operation_and_Cleaning

Re: I’m incompetent

" It'll be how you get addicted and end up with 10 in your garage." Ain't that the truth!

Re: I’m incompetent

if the $70 carb doesn’t leak and allows you to start the bike easily and wear down the starter mechanism.

or even worse, you jar your clutch and transmission by having to rev the bike on the stand to keep it alive and then roll it off the stand and halt the rear wheel.

$70 for ease of mind is really a no brained to me, but i also did mopeds for a living

Re: I’m incompetent

you really prob. just need to take the carb. off and clean it.

this is the idle hole on those smaller dell. carbs. make sure it's clean/clear or the bike will not idle.

dell_orto_carb_idle_jet_hole.jpg

take it all apart and clean everything, you prob. just have shit in the bowl thats causing the float needle not to seal. blow out all holes with carb. cleaner (watch yer eyes) and run a wire or guitar string thru em if need be.

there's plenty of info on here if you do some searches. or you could just spend/waste the $70 and have your 12 year old (and you) not learn anything.

good luck (edited)

Re: I’m incompetent

Did you put the air filter back on when you started it? SHA's are stupid carbs. With no real adjustments, they use the filter as a way of moderating the air flow, and usually won't idle without it on.

Re: I’m incompetent

> baird co wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Did you put the air filter back on when you started it? SHA's are stupid

> carbs. With no real adjustments, they use the filter as a way of

> moderating the air flow, and usually won't idle without it on.

This is not my experience. I've seen plenty of bikes with SHAs idle just fine without an air filter.

Re: I’m incompetent

> b to the eff wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > baird co wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > Did you put the air filter back on when you started it? SHA's are

> stupid

>

> > carbs. With no real adjustments, they use the filter as a way of

>

> > moderating the air flow, and usually won't idle without it on.

>

> This is not my experience. I've seen plenty of bikes with SHAs idle

> just fine without an air filter.

None of my stock bikes will. Or, sometimes they'll idle, but you rev them up and they just go, "bluuuurp..." and try to die. I've had bikes that I'd try to start over and over and get nothing, then put the filter on and it fires right up and idles.

You can mess around with jetting to make them work, especially with kitted or modified engines, but every stock, untouched bike I've had won't run well, if at all, without the filter.

That's why they have those weird air filters.

The stacked screens come in different mesh patterns, and the old style oblong plastic covers have indented circles molded into the plastic (or plugs) so you can punch them out to change the air flow.

Really low budget, inefficient way to meter the air, when just sticking a screw in the side would be much more effective.

I hate those shitty carbs.

Re: I’m incompetent

Well, you have part of a moped. It's missing the front and rear fender, side covers, tail/brake light, but more importantly it's missing the entire air cleaner assembly, which is made up of a whole bunch of parts All those parts at the bottom of the diagram, below the black triangle on the right https://www.mopedjunkyard.com/TOMOS-A35-DELLORTO-Carb-Parts-Diagram-Ref-T7c_c_532.html

It has what looks like a Biturbo or similar exhaust, and the fact that the cylinder is aluminum instead of being painted black like the rest of the engine probably has a big bore kit. Hopefully nobody tried to do any homespun porting on it.

With a setup like that, the engine will need more fuel and air than the stock jetting and air cleaner can provide. You could get away with a pod type foam air filter that attaches directly to the carb. It would help to know how many cc the cylinder is. It might actually be stamped into the cylinder somewhere. You definitely need to remove the carb and take it apart. It is probably filthy inside, if the outside is any indication. The float needle is definitely leaking. It probably needs a new one. I use spray Berrymans B-12 or Gumout carb cleaner and guitar strings to clean out all the small passages. DON'T get carb cleaner in your eyes.

Check the jet and see what number it is. Stock jet should be a #53, but with a low restriction air filter, an expansion chamber exhaust, and possibly a big bore kit, it will need a larger jet. I would start with fixing that leak in the carburetor. It is never going to run right with it leaking like that. That might actually be most of what is wrong with it. It probably needs a little tuning, and there is no shortcut there. It is done by trial and error. Just think of it as a fun learning experience.

Re: I’m incompetent

Hepatitis J [OFMC] /

rationalizing a non idling bike as hotrodded is the funniest shit

Re: I’m incompetent

Baird is completely correct about a Sha requiring some kind of air filter to run correctly. They have been my main carb of choice for a long time.

I agree that they are simple, but that is part of what is nice about them for stock and mildly tuned bikes. With some of the recent mod parts available, or doing some mods yourself to the slide, you can really improve their range.

Re: I’m incompetent

Dirty30 Dillon /

I'm in Brian's camp, while they run best with an airbox, they do not "need" an air filter to function.

I've worked on enough customer bikes that were running hard and long without anything in front of a SHA.

Re: I’m incompetent

> Dirty30 Dillon wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I'm in Brian's camp, while they run best with an airbox, they do not

> "need" an air filter to function.

>

> I've worked on enough customer bikes that were running hard and long

> without anything in front of a SHA.

Just goes to show how much these carbs suck. Some need a filter, some don't.

To be clear, I'm talking about completely unaltered, bone stock engines and the untouched carbs they came with. Basically, how they left the factory.

My carabella, cuyana scorpion, two cimattis, motron, two pacers, the Testi I just got (and probably a few bikes I forgot,) none of them would run without the filter in place.

None of them ran when I got them, so trying to start them for the first time after cleaning the carbs, timing, points, plug, whatever, they'd almost start, or start and die, and then I'd go, "oh yeah, stupid filter..." Slap it on and fire them right up.

I'm sure there are exceptions. But in my experience, it's always the filter (well, besides the fuel dumping out of the banjo, or the idle screw that does nothing, or the air leak from not having an o ring, or the jammed choke lever, or the frayed cable where it bends into the slide, or the missing top cap gasket, or the stripped intake clamp screw, or the loose fit on the intake, or....)

Re: I’m incompetent

SHAs are fine. absolutely wonderful carbs once you actually take the time to figure them out.

if they aren’t acting right, they probably need a different slide or you might just be bad at building and tuning.

Re: I’m incompetent

> LSLB RXb wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> SHAs are fine. absolutely wonderful carbs once you actually take the

> time to figure them out.

>

> if they aren’t acting right, they probably need a different slide or you

> might just be bad at building and tuning.

Yeah, that's probably it. I suck at building and tuning...

Re: I’m incompetent

Hepatitis J [OFMC] /

Yeah, I dont understand the SHA hate. It's a perfectly serviceable carb for like 90% of mopeds and builds. It makes sense that a stock bike would want the air filter in place, that's what they were tuned to. You can definitely run one without an air filter or less screens , just tune to that. I'm not sure why you'd want to do that though.

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