Hi All......I know this is going to be a stupid question, but what kind of oil should I use in the transmission of my Minarelli v1 engine (where the clutch is)? I know that the manual I saw says SAE 20.......but can anyone recommend a common brand? I googled SAE 20 and got a bunch of 5W-20 and stuff like that. Any recommendations on a brand and or type would be helpful. Also, how often do you change the oil in there. Thanks in advance for any help and apologies for my lack of knowledge. Thanks
SAE 30w ND (Non-detergent)
Tractor supply has 20 or 30W NON-Detergent oil. That's what's recommended depending on your location. In the Northern regions use 20W.
Thanks You!!
I live in New Jersey if that makes a difference.
Tractor Supply only carries 20w ND in a two gallon jug. Unless you have a fleet of V1 mopeds, just use the 30w ND that comes in one quart containers. (edited)
Has to be a sae non detergent.
20wt or 30wt.
No hydraulic oil.
Any regular motor oil is fine, I like 15w40 rotella. I don't think it's worth going out and buying another bottle of oil of you have something close.
Yeah, I've run 10W30 in Morinis with no probs. But if it's had ND the detergent in 10W30 will get dirty quick for the next coupla oil changes. Do an oil change after an hour of running time if it's had ND or you suspect it.
ND SAE oil lets the metal bits and dirt sink to the bottom and stay on the bottom. The clutch material was engineered for SAE ND 20 wt oil. Its your bike, look at the owners manual. Of coarse there is always someone who has a degree that knows more. In my ped its ND SAE 20 wt oil. Guess what it still runs like new.
My bikes still run like new. Mostly 10W30 .
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Any regular motor oil is fine, I like 15w40 rotella. I don't think it's
> worth going out and buying another bottle of oil of you have something
> close.
So I agree and don't agree with this. I had a bike mabye 10 years ago and changed to a non detergent oil and I had weird clutch problems. I belive that if you use regular oil in a rebuilt engine then you are good. If you are just changing the oil in a 40 year old bike then stick to the non detergent. The non detergent oil will push all the sludge to the sides it will just hang out there. If you change to detergent oil it will pick up all that old sluge and particles and suspend and mix it around.
Are you anywhere near a Rural King? They carry Non-Detergeant 20 Weight in a 1 or 2 gallon jug in the $20-$30 price range. The only other ND option I have found has been at O'Reilly's and it was ND30 in quarts.
I recall that V1'S take about 21 ounces, so it's a matter of the heavier oil with a little bit in a container lying around or the EXACT oil with a lot of it lying around.
Of course, some idiots, and I won't mention my name, might have close to 20 bikes with V1 engines. Just sayin'.
The one time I used regular 30w detergent type oil in a V1, it would constantly seep out of the weep hole on the Esso cap on top, and drip down my engine. And my clutch slipped more than I liked.
According to the v1 manual, it takes one pint. Which is a few ounces less than the check hole.
Regular detergent oil degrades cork, while non detergent oils don't. At least that's what the manuals say.
My Sachs shifty engines call for 80w gear oil. That shit stinks. And when you blow a main seal and it burns up, it'll kill all the mosquitoes in a five block radius.
Living in a cold region, I;d check Rural King or NAPA or TSC to try and get the 20W ND oil. But I've had good success and no leaks with 10W30 detergent.
Used to be,Valvoline straight 30W was too full of detergent for me to use it in my Trowel machines. But that was really back in the 70s.
I use type F atf in my v1, havent had a single problem with it
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