MOPED ARMY

Foam filter nope, Use metal mesh filter,

217 atomizer nope that’s for a 15mm bing not 14mm, use a 222 atomizer, maybe lean single ring needle too then 70-72 jet will be good but only if you Tune Your Clutch!

To jet/tune correctly you have to be in your powerband! you cannot be in your powerband if your clutch engages at anemic stock 1400 RPM, you will not have enough carburetor signal, Tune your clutch with thick springs like stiff kickstart ones for around 5000 RPM engagement

Iv ran some pretty crazy bing combination with great giants.

If u find away to run them fat off the line they like it

OK, 2.22 atomizer, 73 jet, single ring needle at full rich, 24 slide, metal mesh air filter. Kick start springs 1.5 turns out from flush in stock 2 shoe. What a difference! MUCH better acceleration and a little more on top, 34mph+-. Lots more tuning to do but I am in the ball park now. Thanks guys!

Tomorrow I will crank those clutch springs in and lean things out a bit and see how she goes. (edited)

I don't know why other people do anything they do. I do know why I had a 2.17 atomizer. It is the one that came in the 14mm Bing on my Pinto. Some 14s did indeed come with the 2.17. I took your advice. I am neither stubborn or in favor of slow.

I will also take your advice on the clutch spring set up. Thanks again.

At this time I do not have a 72 jet. I have a 71 and a 73. I am already using the single embossed needle which also came in the Pinto carburetor.

I can see what I'm going to be doing today.

That’s where the tuning comes in, you can run as much timing as you want as long as you have cool sustained head/engine temperatures,

My kitted bikes run anywhere from 14° to 16° and non kitted 18-19 deg but I have long high speed straightaways and a few pretty long hills that I can’t back off with trucks/traffic on my ass if head temps go too high,

I do lose a little bit of power with low timing but Having uncontrolled temperatures that spike to seize zone it’s something I cannot have

I wish the owner of the ride would flip for a temp gauge but he doesn't think its useful.

Maybe I should try jetting down to a 69. That's 5 up from the stock 64. Right now I am up 8.There just seems to be too much fuel at idle.

Jeff, ole buddy, I hope you are right. The carburetor that came on this bike was a 1/14/157 that had a 24 slide, 217 atomizer an 72 jet. It was in terrible shape do I bought a

1/14/160 and that is what I'm

working with now. Hopefully we

will get this figured out. Keep me

posted.

I’ve followed kens specs on multiple bikes for 14mm and 15mm bing carbs and they work for me. It’s actually nice to have a known base point for diagnosing. When they did not work, I found that I had something else wrong like a leak, a snot in the carb, points, timing

I sonic cleaned my carburetor and reassembled it with a 71 jet and the needle in the second notch from the top. As soon as I start it, it idles pretty fast but as it warms up the idle starts to drop even with the idle screw all the way in.

HBP. i'd reclean points and triple check every point of entry on your carb as a first measure, but if you can't get idle, i'd be looking for an air leak. are you still running a 2.17 on the 14mm? i have had a bike that would stall at lights but it also had dirty points and dirty carb. if your condenser was going your bike may not run right when warm

What you are describing is normal for an engine going from cold to hot.

The reason the carb has a choke is because cold engines don’t vaporize fuel as well.

When the engine is cold, it sucks in mix, but not as many droplets of gasoline turn to vapor. So, you are actually a little lean (from the point of view of the combustion chamber) when cold. Hence a choke.

A warm engine flash vaporizes them droplets. That’s where you need a carb tuned right - when it’s at operating temp.

This is the reason people say that a properly tuned carb won’t start without the choke on.

Like I said in the other thread, check out that bing slide mod. It really does make this problem go away with almost no time or effort.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Temps are diff for everyone. Maybe a guy that keeps his ped in an attached (or even heated) garage would never understand this. Or if the person lives somewhere that is always warm. Or even if they are fair weather riders that never start a two stroke in winter.

If you are tuning a frozen engine in February, you will have a much more intimate experience with this issue. Most bikes I have (2T or 4T) need to be ridden the first several blocks with the choke on in cold temps.

Hope that helps (edited)

Sounds like maybe worn rings?

Down jetted to #70 and still wont idle so now it's time to try the #25 slide. If that is a no go then I'm thinking about going back to the 217 atomizer where it did idle but ran bad. I can play with the needle from there. will post back with results.

P.S. anybody have a link to kens carb post? I need to read it again but cant find it.