MOPED ARMY

A little rod side play is fine , as it allows for 'centering' or proper alignment .

In/out play of very much , if any , will have you replacing/rebuilding the crankshaft .

I'd stick with a bearing .

Needle bearings are superior, especially if you up the displacement and power.

You're likely gonna be pushing it to it's limit .

I doubt you'll find a bearing for that conversion , so just do the bushing and wait for things to seize . ;)

If you weren't prone to pushing , I'd think about honing the small rod end to fit the less than 2mm bigger bearing , but ...

If you think about it , most of the force involved is almost all straight through the rod into the crank . Compression is upward against mounting pressure and then the big boom driving things back down . All that action is , for the most part , exerting pressures right though the rod into the crank . A downward pressure . So , 'other' pressures are much less . The rod ends are round to basically keep the pins and rod in alignment and as a byproduct keeps things together .

Anyway , like I said , you'll be pushing , so go with the bushing .

I'd make sure that that bushing gets enough lube while it's doing it's job .

I guess the ring snapped because i accidentally sprayed water with pressure washer on left side of the hot cylinder, and after that full throttle to where ever i was riding.

This is not stock tomos just to be clear.

This is modded a3 cylinder (not the bigger a35 cyl) that was pushing 64 kph messured with gps

Which was running extremely hot.

As the water cooled metal on the left side of the cylinder, the top of the piston was hitting the cyl wall and compressed piston ring which made it snap.

Wrist pin is in a perfect condition both from inside and outside. As i said im wondering if play I described in previous posts is okay or not, because im used to having fixed bushing that doesnt move inside of the small end of the rod

Thanks!