1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Laura M56 Engine with Encarwi H12 carb. Carb has been cleaned MANY times. Cut a new gasket. Checked reeds. Replaced rings. Decarborized exhaust pipe. Installed new condenser. Installed new coil and plug wire/boot. Cleaned jet. Cleaned all the ports in the carb, throttle slide, choke slide and o-rings. This thing just wont run right. Its got hardly any power, will only go up to about 10 - 15 MPH. (Should do 30 no problem). Engine smells hotter than it should. What am i missing here???? Timing? I was running perfect for a bit then seemed to change on its own. Getting frustrated. Other than that, everything works on the bike. Replaced the horn. All the lights work. Breaks work. I'm getting close to selling this thing to someone who is better at this than me. HELP!!!

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

♣Slew Foot♣ /

Do a leakdown test its drawing air. Case halve gasket or statorside trannyside seal leak. Banjo basket cup clogged. Float pin too high.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Ugh...those Encarwi carbs are just the worst....best thing I ever did to my M56 was put a SHA 15.15 on it (treats has them, you'd need the different intake too).

Running a fuel filter? How rusty is the tank? You could be pulling crap into the carb every time you clean it. Either way I always recommend a fuel filter, no matter the state of the tank, keep that crap out of your carb/jug.

Check for air leaks?

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Would you mind sharing a diagram of your set up? What intake did you use? Did it require different jetting? The tank I have cleaned to near bright white metal (with vinegar and water). Worked really well. The petcock has a small screen filter and the banjo bolt has the basket filter. The banjo basket filter has been clean every time I check it. I get flow when turning the petcock on with the float cap removed. Once I install the float cap and pull the jet holder, I'm not getting flow. I've inspected the jet many times and it seems spotless. I should be getting flow out of the jet holder with it removed, no???

I've checked for air leaks around the carb and intake with carb cleaner. No change in RPMs. I'm concerned it could be lower seals and case gasket. I haven't gone this far yet? I can only find 2 out of the 5 seals on treatland and moped junkyard. I can cut a new case half gasket (i'm pretty good with an exacto blade) I'm not really familiar with how to do a leakdown test. Help a brother out man! Show me your set up. I'm absolutely willing to do a carb-swap on this thing if it will solve the issue!!! .....elp!

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Can't promise it'll fix your issue to be honest, but I hated that Encarwi and have had smooth sailing with the Dellorto SHA 15.15 ever since I put it on. Here's the intake , which hurts to spend that kinda dough on, but MLM is quality stuff. You should get a lot more reliable of a bike by doing this. I've never heard of anyone being disappointed with this particular upgrade.

As far as where you'll get flow on that Encarwi carb, I really can't help you too much with troubleshooting it because mine has been sitting in a box for...well...a while. I never could get that carb to work correctly.

I haven't got down to doing bearings/seals on this motor yet it's a planned winter project for me since this is one of my more reliable (albeit slow) bikes. I do, however, have the bearings and seals on hand as a local place here in Minnesota called Ickler was able to source them (and for all the other moped engines I've worked on) for me. I know they'll ship too, so if you get desperate you can contact them, their pricing was pretty good.

My setup is an '83 Trac Eagle with the Daelim M56 clone (same as the Laura M56 found on the Batavus, or at least everything is interchangeable between them). MLM People's pipe, SHA15.15, MLM reed block .

Here are a few pics , specifically some close ups of the intake/carb.

One thing I should mention with this motor is that you're pretty limited. I've just about done all you can do to it as far as bolt-on upgrades (carb/exhaust/reed block). There are no kits so if you expect to go beyond 35mph, you probably want to get a different bike, this is a just a cruiser, though it's been quite reliable as I mentioned since putting on that carb.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

I think I am going to pull the trigger and upgrade the carb. Me reeds look okay (stock). I inspected them and there are no light leaks.

Did you keep the reed riser (spacer block) with the new intake? What size jet are you running? Also, I see you selected the one WITH the choke cable. I was thinking of shit canning the choke cable and going with the lever style and getting rid of the extra cable. Any thoughts??? Is the choke cable plug and play with the old Encarwi cable. I have the thumb lever style choke on the handlebars.

Have you ever had to mess with your timing or points?

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Yea, only went with the aftermarket reed block to try to eek a little more performance out of it. Definitely not something you need to do. I left the spacer in there, not really sure if i should have. Maybe I should rip it out and see what happens, probably doesn't matter. I'd go with the one without the cable choke, I regret getting the cable style one.

I've cleaned and checked point gap and timing on it before. It's the same magneto/stator as a Puch E50, so you can follow all the guides for those. 17mm BTDC.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

♣Slew Foot♣ /

For a leakdown you can use a cigarette and blow smoke into the intake with the exhaust blocked.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Cool....now I just need to find someone who smokes....

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

So I ended up replacing the points last night. Kinda of a b@#$t setting the point gap without the "special" tool. But I got it pretty close. Seemed to make an instant positive improvement. I'm studying up a little more on checking/resetting the timing. I'm hoping this might be where a big part of my problem lies. The edge that rides on the lobe of the cam was pretty worn down when I compared it to the new set of points.

Still think I'm going to go with the upgraded carb. However, I want to make sure the points and timing are right first.

Your input has actually been super helpful. I was loosing all hope and you restored it a bit for me. Thanks! Got any tips on timing? LOL

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

Here you go:

The M56 has the same stator/flywheel as the bike he's working on (E50) so you'll be able to follow that exactly.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

theres alotta different smells especially if it hasn't run in a while, best way is to check temperature is to get a head temp sensor, or a temp gun. Your looking at around 300 -340 to be normal after a good run. nice thing about the temp gun is you can point it anywhere.

Re: 1978 Batavus Regency HS50 No Power / Smells Hot

I have a temp gun. I'll get'er up to operating then give her a shoot. I understand timing can obviously affect how hot she runs (and potential seize her). So, I'm working on getting that dialed in now. I should just run a spark plug temp gauge so I can monitor it. I'll add it to the long list of things to do on this old girl....lol

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