The Beloved 1984 Trac Clipper dies on hills

The new (and correct B7HS) spark plug helped it start more quickly, its tiny Encarwi carburetor has been cleaned, etc., and I've fooled with the float level. Each improved matters slightly, but on every test run, somewhere on our test hill, it cuts out without warning. It'll start once more without waiting.

I've paid very little attention to the ignition timing, and the float level still might not be correct (though in the past it wasn't a problem.) The bike ran well when I first got it, but I'm wondering if something horrid, like shaft seals, perhaps have finally given up.

So: is there a way to check crankshaft seals? Should I guess again at the float level (the diagram I initially used made no sense and might have been for a different model of carburetor)? Would ignition timing be the culprit? A capacitor (condenser) perhaps? (It tested okay with the ohmmeter, but I don't trust them.) There just isn't much inside this here mobile chain saw.

Thanks for any advice.

Mark Kinsler

Re: The Beloved 1984 Trac Clipper dies on hills

could be seals, or reeds, I think that's the reed engine, depends on year maybe but the M56 style still had tiny reeds in ther.

I'd be inclined to blame electrical 1st tho, just double checking the points and all.

Re: The Beloved 1984 Trac Clipper dies on hills

Mark Kinsler /

Thank you. I've tried an external capacitor (condenser) and while the engine starts and runs nicely with two condensers in parallel, it still died on the same hill. The timing seems awfully close to the 1-2 mm before top dead center that's specified.

And yes: there is indeed a reed valve. It's not at all clear how these are to be dealt with aside from just leaving them alone. Advice would be appreciated.

Now, I had not associated the two problems, but it seems that my starting clutch is also slipping quite a bit, making it difficult to restart the bike after it dies. Thus I'm disassembling the clutch and while I have noted very little wear, it occurs to me that there is a crankshaft seal right behind the clutch. If that seal is leaky, perhaps it is shooting oil-laden fuel vapor into the clutch.

And so I shall clean and buff the clutch surfaces and replace the crankshaft seal, and then the seal beneath the magneto as well. Does this sound like a reasonable strategy? The carburetor is so simple that I've run out of ideas therein.

Thanks very much for your response.

Mark Kinsler, Lancaster, Ohio (edited)

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