MOPED ARMY

Thanks for the information, that’s the way I moved it but wasn’t sure, it’s still burning rich but I have one notch left maybe I’ll move it . Would a different air/fuel low speed adjustment screw valve make a difference also? It’s a Chinese clone carb but runs good , I was thinking about taking the air /fuel valve from the original carb and swapping it with the Chinese carb. Thanks again

Do you mean the carb is too big for the needle ?

Best to fix and use the original.

There are some real small passages in those carbs but once clean and sealed, they run real well. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, or buy a jewelry ultrasonic cleaner maybe on amazon, or buy the one gallon Gunk carb soak and soak for a week. Follow up with chasing passages with speaker wire strands, carb spray and compressed air. Mounting flange- check flatness, use small thick flatwashers not lockwashers. Use original jets and not ones that come with carb kits.

Also make sure the mounting spacer is flat, new o-ring, base gasket, Hondabonded.

Any little airleak in the setup makes them sputter and not return to idle fast enough for a smooth shift. I have gone through every leakpoint by replacing the little o-rings in the carb.

Its s non-standard o-ring size. If you get one from Honda, try ebay ir dratv.com. Making 2 gaskets for each side is the other option.

Water is thicker than gasoline .

Pull the carb and polish the float seat bright shiny . Inspect the needle tip for any deformities . Check float level .

I might have found the problem after hours and hours of piddling around . When I went through training for running machines at Timken Bearing our instructor told us the most beneficial tip . He said if your machines are running along fine and all of a sudden things go South, ask yourself the question What did I just do ? In this case I new it was something I did but couldn’t think what it was . The filter cup was rusty so I soaked it overnight in evaporators. I just happened to pick it up for the umteeth time

,looked at it under a magnified light and it had around a dozen small holes ,the evaporust ate the rust off that was covering the holes, that’s what hopefully is causing the problem. I coated the holes with J-B Weld and will give it a go tomorrow. In the meantime I ordered a used carb that came off a 65 Cub , same as mine . Thanks for all the feedback.

The carb from EBay should get here soon ,maybe that part will be good. I just tested it for leaks and it works so those pin holes were the problem. Thanks

The carb looks to be in good shape I’ll have $50 worth of fun just tinkering around with it , add it to the pile of fishing reels and other stuff laying around collecting dust. It’s amazing how much you can learn about problem solving just tinkering around . One question on this carb . There’s a piece on the Petcock assembly called the cock packing , does this have to be in a certain place ? Mine has 7 holes and a solid area in which a hole is skipped . I don’t want to screw this up too. Thanks again