MOPED ARMY

Drain your oil if you didn't already and remove all the bolts holding the transmission cover on. It helps to drive them through a piece of cardboard in the order you took them out.

As mentioned 100 times before these use the same surflex clutches that e50's use. Use the rope trick to remove the nut holding the clutch on. Use a clutch puller to pop that fucker off there.

Don't forget the little woodruff key. If you lose it, it's not a big deal.

Now not all this has to be done in this exact order. But I switch over and pull the sprocket off. Using a holder to get the nut off is how the manual says to do it.

I have also used the drive gear nut to remove the sprocket nut

Either way once the nut is off, use a 2 jaw puller to pull the sprocket off

Remove the wrist pin clips from the piston. In this case they are circlips.

Remove the wrist pin. No picture but usually I use small socket extension and push it out. Put the wrist pin and needle bearing in a bag with some oil and put it in a safe spot.

At this point everything should be removed from the engine and it's ready to come off the frame. Remove the nuts and the three bolts that hold the engine on and gently guide the engine down.

Remove the seal behind it

Use a socket or something like it and bop the bearing out. Use a little heat on the case if you need it. Make sure you have the case half on something soft/forgiving so you don't mess the sealing surface up.

Clean everything reallllly well and prepare for a rebuild! I like to lay everything out so you know where its all gonna go in the end.

Freeze your bearings, crank, and drive shaft overnight.

Lets start with the transmission side. Install the outer most circlips. The bearings will butt up against these circlips.

Heat the cases up with either a small oven (not your home one) or a torch. If an oven I usually do 250-300F. In this case I used a torch. Take your frozen bearings, one 6202 for the crank and a 6003 for the drive shaft, and hopefully they should just drop right in. If they don't, take a pipe or something the same diameter as the OUTER race of the bearing and give it some taps till it goes into place. You shouldn't have to bash them in with brute force, the temperature difference should work wonders.

Just some extras.

I replaced the headset bearings on my robin with these

https://www.treatland.tv/vespa-piaggio-ciao-headset-bearing-buzzetti-p/buzzetti-ciao-headset-6070.htm

I used a wire wheel to make them silver again. Also had to shim the bottom race but it all came together beautifully.

I opened up the transfers a little bit and case matched them. Not a lot, nothing crazy. I left the exhaust alone because I was using the stock pan. I opened the intake just enough to match the carb. I didn't touch the port timing one bit.

On the cases there is some rough edges around the transfers. Clean all that up so it doesn't disrupt the flow of things. Again nothing crazy here; just cleaning up some jagged edges.

Ya keep saying use the rope trick,

To anybody who cares about their stuff do not use the rope trick ever! On anything ever! whoever does is an amateur and they must have to redo their work, (yeah he did say he had to redo his bearing work so I guess ya oh well)

Way better is to use a impact zip zip for no stress on the piston at the pin, rod or anything, no stress on any of the crank/reciprocating parts,