I am wondering of proper technique of tightening the clutch . this is a stub plane with a castle nut and cotter pin setup , I am thinking I should tighten it down to remove the play, then loosen the nut maybe 1/10 of an turn and put the cotter pin through the castle nut and hole in the crank, is this the correct?
If you snug it up too much, the bell can bind up between the clutch and the crank. I made that mistake once, took awhile to figure out. I would ride to work, usually worked fine...but after long stretches of full throttle, I would come to a stop and the bike would stall, acting like the clutch was still engaged. Turns out after the long run, the oil bath gets suspended within the engine and doesnt lubricate the bell bushing as well. Normally it would be fine, but with the added heat of the long run, and the extra friction the overtightened nut put on the bell, it would lightly seize the bell to the crank. After a few minutes I could ride again.
I finally figured it out from a bronze colored witness mark/ring on the spacer between the bell and the crank.
Thanks a ton, I will back it off a bit more :)
A lot of v1 I have seen don’t have a crank case vent. Check that your fill cap has a tiny hole in the side of it and if it does make sure it’s clear of debris.
I today found out mine was a stub plane clutch with the castle nut and all and was surprised to find it, actually. The thread is RH. I'm pretty it's LH on the non-stub plane variety. I put yellow springs in the clutch today . Also replaced the flimsy pin with some safety wire.
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: