MOPED ARMY

More photos for reference

Good thought. The slide is working properly. Just replaced the throttle cable and housing too.

Do you know you have gas coming into the Cylinder? IE wet plug?

The plug may be grounding out on the cylinder once you screw it back in. You can check this with a timing light. Maybe the plug boot or wire is grounding out something?

Could also be bad bearing seals....:(

Yes, pulled the plug after trying to start several times and it was wet.

How would I check if the plug bolt or wire is grounding something out?

Any way to check for bad seals?

Actually the points are closing at 15 degrees. They are open up until I rotate clockwise to 15 degrees

Your bike has points, not CDI.

The spark is sent the moment the points open not close

That is so strange because I never removed the stator/flywheel and it ran before I repainted it. Ran poorly, but ran.

So how do I get them to unreversed? Did the last owner install the flywheel upside down?

Jared Rut you are the frickin man! She’s alive!!!

Try using an analog multimeter buzzer attached to the coil wire and ground and adjust timing so the buzz stops or reduces in sound level when the points open at your flywheel line to the right. Adjust the points within the gap range to get it or move the stator plate. Tighten the 3 stator plate screws and points screw and check again.

The points are also opening up at 45 degrees for some reason. Here’s a video of what’s going on.

Condenser looks original. I would replace it. I think there is a service manual download in the wiki.

Mark tdc on opposite side of flywheel. Your marks are at bdc and you're seeing the points closing. Find true tdc. Adjust timing. Set point gap when just past tdc and fire her up!

Don with Sunday Morning Motors spent an hour on the phone with me and helped me finally get this thing started. However, it is still not running properly. It only starts using a drill at the flywheel. Once started, it idles fine until its warm and then dies and won't re-start. If I give it gas during warm up it bogs down and then dies.

While running, I checked for vacuum leak with starter fluid and discovered there were several leaks due to uneven cylinder and head surfaces. I manually honed the cylinder and head connections using 80, 150, 220, and 320 wet sandpaper. Got new gaskets and vacuum leaks are now completely gone. Broke the piston ring putting the cylinder back together so bought a new piston ring from treats, gapped it properly, and re-installed. Moped still only starts once in a while using a drill. Still wont kick start.

Tried point gap settings of .35mm, .40mm and .45mm. No luck

Tried spark plug gap settings of .30mm, .40mm, and .50mm. No luck

Next I decided to purchase a timing light and found that it was running at 27 BTDC. Adjusted the stator plate as retarded as possible and still sitting around 25 BTDC. Drilled out the stator plate screw slots and that brought it down to 20 BTDC.

Then I started wondering if it has the incorrect flywheel installed. I cross referenced the flywheel currently installed Bosch #0212 124 066 against what Myrons Mopeds says I am supposed to have based on model year and 5-wire stator (Bosch part #1215 254 635). Long story, short, I think the wrong flywheel is on there and woodruff key location is causing timing to be far too advanced?

I'm about 2 beers away from burning this POS to the ground. Anyone else have something I can check or try tonight. Thing wont even start as it sits right now...

I saw other posts where people lapped the flywheel. Just nervous about making the situation worse than it is. Before I dig into this my mechanical knowledge was limited to vehicle brake jobs and oil changes...