Condenser

Tomos Colibri /

Hello.

I have Tomos Colibri T12, year 1965.

I want to change the condenser, because there is spark between contact points (they are new) and there is sudden loss of power when moped warms up.

There are two types of condensers:

-the one to be soldered (by default on this moped) - 0.2uF

-the one with thread - 0.17uF

I have white magneto (aluminium?), some Tomoses have black magneto. I think the default for black magneto is the condenser with the thread.

My question is - can I put in the 0.17uF condenser? Will it damage the contact points? I want to avoid soldering so I don't want to use the firs type of condenser.

I tried to test the condenser with a multimeter (see the photo). It always shows "1" -> does it confirm that the condenser is damaged?

I can see also there is no continuity.

Thanks,

tomosyu

IMG_20200112_181022.jpg

Re: Condenser

Dirty30 Dillon /

If you have no continuity that your condensor is bad. If you have a proper meter, you should see be able to ohm, then switch to VAC and see a minute voltage that will discharge into meter.

Either way, replacing with either the solder-on or screw-on is totally fine, the small difference in capacitance will not effect the functionality in anyway. I prefer the screw on, as they make changing the condensor the next time much easier.

Re: Condenser

Click here to test a condenser.

Re: Condenser

yea, that's basically identical for this purpose. i prefer solder but it's no difference except install. i guess it would make it easier later but i've never had to replace a condenser more than once

Re: Condenser

Pushrod Fifty /

I use a Fluke digital multimeter to test them, first touching the cap lead to the body to expel any stored capacity. Set the dial on the diode setting. Push the high/low button to high. .33 uf reading if its a good one and new ones are right around there. If the value climbs after you heat it up a little, its bad.

Re: Condenser

> John Maxson Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I use a Fluke digital multimeter to test them, first touching the cap

> lead to the body to expel any stored capacity. Set the dial on the diode

> setting. Push the high/low button to high. .33 uf reading if its a good

> one and new ones are right around there. If the value climbs after you

> heat it up a little, its bad.

Seems a bit high . I'm use to seeing something close to .22µ .

Re: Condenser

Tomos Colibri /

Multimeter shows no continuity with the new condenser, too. So I assume that it is normal. I mean the type of continuity check that you get if you turn the bottom end of multimeter switch to the right (look at photo in the first post).

However, the new condenser is thicker, so I will have to make the hole on the electricity plate (board) bigger.

And I have to wait for "150PCS Ring Terminal Cable Lug Bare Terminal Cable Connector Multi-Purpose M3G7" to arrtive from China.

3.2mm I supose. (edited)

kondenz1.jpg

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