So from the files of I am so dumb, I gave each side of the crank a good tap when I was putting the case back together. Of course this bent the last 1/2mm of the threads on both ends.
And if that were not enough the crank is not moving very freely. I am wondering if I hit the seals so hard to seat them that pancaked them a bit.
Note a pattern..
Shit, shit, shit.
The crank threads can be fixed and the crank turning snugly might just be new bearings .
Just file any mushroomed crank ends down to thread 'size' and clean the thread valleys out , so the nuts can be turned on .
I keep needle files in the tool box for just such occasions . ;)
Any local stores sell thread files? I don't see them...
> Ken Fil Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Any local stores sell thread files? I don't see them...
Any ACE hardware or Menards should have them
Fixed a mushroomed puch crank awhile back
https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,3800219,3800317,flat=1#msg-3800317
Make that mistake once and then learn to thread the appropriate nut on the end of shaft before any hammering or pulling commences.
You bet, lessons learned
Gotta use the round side of the hammer!
> Ken Fil Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Any local stores sell thread files? I don't see them...
30 second search :
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/files/2166650
Not only put the nut on the shaft,Ken, but use a pine 2"X2" or the like between the hammer and the nut/shaft.
Thank you
I had to replace front wheel bearings on my Aerostar a few weeks back. The pine 2X2s did the trick ,but I had to saw off 3 or 4 ends to do it with.
The old trick is to drive the new race in with the thick side of the old race, but to start them in, the 2X2 works great.
Always put a nut on any threads before smacking. Use a brass or lead hammer.
But, like already said, file them, and you should be good. New bearings always turn stiff in the beginning. (edited)
always use a plastic hammer when doing that,
I did the same thing. You can file down the threads, which takes forever, until you can get the nuts back on.
For the crank not spinning freely, smack the cases with a wood block. That's actually from the repair manual. It should set everything in the right place
I got a metric thread file off of E-bay not that long ago. Works a charm and it comes with 8 thread profiles. Cost around $12 with shipping.
John in Texas
I use a plastic hammer for giving threaded things a technical knock of persuasion, you can also put a block of delrin plastic or a piece of pine between the victim and the hammer of choice. Good standard practice is to have a nut on the end of a threaded shaft or end of the bolt you plan on assaulting.
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