MOPED ARMY

are they greased? They could be pre-greased and just need to work that,or are they free spinning until they're on? Maybe you've got some side force binding?

"Barely have any spin"...does that mean that you physically cannot rotate them at all with your hands?

It ain't no fidget spinner, if they are greased then the won't spin more than a few rotations freely by themselves.

Here, this is how freely they rotate

Try washing them out with brake cleaner .

There are bearings made with tight tolerances . SKF bearings have always been known to be long lasting , higher quality bearings . I suppose being a bit tight might just be part of that .

Clean the grease out and soak

them in two stroke oil.

I see nothing wrong in that video. Load them onto your crank and give them a wee drop of 2t oil, make sure the chamered ID side is facing the crank cheek (also your spi seals need to have the garter springs facing OUT).

The bearings you removed spin like heck because they are worn out.

heads up - spinning a dry bearing at high speeds unloaded is a great way to potentially damage it. grit can jam up the rollers and cause them to skid, wearing them prematurely, and straight metal-metal contact is not usually a good thing.

You guys are right . But , it seems you're swatting at gnats .

Then again , some of the folks on this site could/would push it to the limit , just because .

I have to ask : Exactly how much life are these bearings loosing due to 'testing' ?

Would anyone notice the difference in lifespan ?

Specially considering the work life treatment a lot of these builds are expected to endure . Not to mention some shop conditions are far from ideal .

Seems that practice would actually tell whether or not the bearing was good from the start .

If an air-gun happened to open a small wound a bit farther and left a pocket of dirty air , I'd think it would get put right at the top of the do not do list . ;)

That^ is the best approach .

If we start out right , we're much more likely end up right . ;)