Cleaned gas tank, cleaned carb, fresh fuel & filter & won't start. Do I start off by replacing both rear taillight bulbs? Any suggestions I'd appreciate
Check the bulbs, but possibly bad spark plug or condenser.
Thanks Don, brand new plug so I'll try the bulbs first
Clean/file the points. Check gap.
Started to sandpaper the point last night. Going to order a flywheel puller this week & replace both rear bulbs. Was pulling intetmittent spark last week off the engine(not real strong). Not sure if the bulbs would make the difference since I did have bypass switch under headlight flipped forward but definitely worth trying! Bike hasn't run in 30-40 years been in a basement. Hoping this old kill switch isnt an issue. Appreciate all the input all new to me.
In my 20+ years of restoring mopeds, I have found that dirty/fouled points is the cause of no or intermittent spark almost every time. 40 years of sitting around in a damp basement will do it. Rarely have I ever seen a switch go bad. (edited)
Thanks Lar, it doesn't look good in there definitely probably need some cleaning. The moped didn't come with the fan or cover over the fan(things I'll try to locate if I can get it started) so I'm sure it got exposed even more so! I'll go ahead & order the 19mm x 1 puller & go from there.
I have a rebuilt motor, good stator, flywheel, fan set, and carb. Also have a Mule bike to tune it to a clean stock pipe. bring your bike and leave with a runner.
if the hidden switch gives u spark then theres an issue brake circuit.
Intermittent spark would not be a bulb issue (either your bulb is blown or it isn't, so either you have spark or you don't). Like Lar siad, It's most likely points. If not points then try condenser, and then ultimately coil. They typically go in that order from most to least likely. Coils don't really burn out unless they're rusted out. Of the 30+ mopeds I've had, only one had a coil issue (and that was because it had sat outside for 2+ years) but probably 1/4 of them needed points cleaned after I got them. When a condenser starts going bad it'll give you spark until it overheats after the first couple of miles (if you let it cool for a bit it'll start working again).
I'm with everyone else here, file the points. Don't sand them, use a points file, they're like $3 at O'Reilly or any auto parts store. Sanding them won't do much
Definitely a new set of points is in order . Maybe Treatland .
And , A PO did a crap job on the soldering . I'd pull all the old solder , clean and redo it .
Might be a good idea to pull the coils clean the rust and inspect the windings for any imperfections / possible shorts .
Replace the fifty-year-old condenser while you're at it
Check all grounds? (edited)
New point & condensor on order & awaiting arrival
shoulda ordered a couple crank seals as well, anyways take a look at your wiring diagram(myrons) and put back stuff to where its suppose to be.
> pat splat Wrote:
> shoulda ordered a couple crank seals as well, anyways take a look at
> your wiring diagram(myrons) and put back stuff to where its suppose to
I'll be sure to take a look at the diagram if something isn't functional. I'm also sure this is far from the last thing I'll have to order but since your throwing it out there... crank seals for what?
Yes,at least the flyside seal.
> Don Ohio Wrote:
> Yes,at least the flyside seal.
Part link please? Also what are you seeing that makes you believe I need one? I'm not an old pro at fixing these mopeds yet LOL!
If I can get it running I plan another large order of parts but first waiting to hear it run before I do so.
In 40 years, oil seals become brittle and leak.
You've got the flywheel off, which means it's a simple matter to replace the flywheel side seal. Now's the time!
Thanks Don, Lar & Pat for all the advice! Hoping to hear the motor start this weekend parts came in today.
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