MOPED ARMY

This is an update on what I thought was my spring issue. I have a parts bike with the clutch intact and so I pulled it apart and the springs are the same, sigh. Thought I had it figured out. I did notice that the shoes have 2 sets of holes and I'm thinking that if I move the springs to the inner holes that might give me a bit more room for the shoes to expand.

Thoughts?

Yes it has the disconnect for the engine, and it is hooked up.

No I haven't tried to start it with a drill. Good idea though. I will give it a go and see what happens. Report to follow.

Thanks

John

Indeed those holes are so you can have a earlier starter hook up (two holes closest to each other), medium rpm hookup (one in one out) or late hook up (outside holes)

But at more or less goodly pedalling speed they should be contacting the bell and turning the motor.

I have thought about corrosion on the arms. As far as I know they haven't been apart for 56 years. I can get them to move with the use of a screwdriver. I will pick up some penetrating oil and see where that gets me.

How hard is it to remove the springs and reattach them with everything still in place?

Thanks

John

My new to me Mobylette is a 63. No I don't have the parts book but I have found a shop book on line that I printed out and put into a binder.

I will print out the parts break down of the clutch you sent me and keep it as a reference. You can never have to much information.

Thanks again

John

I will email you a copy of the parts book, it is in French language but the illustrations are handy to see how things are assembled.

I picked up a parts bike, a 59, at the same time I got this one. In pretty sad shape but if it saves me even a little bit of money it is worth it. This one hasn't been molested just neglected and once I get the starting problem sorted out I will be well on my way.

If you don't mine, where are you at? I'm in Texas.

Good luck and maybe we can help each other out information wise.

John

Well I'm still trying to figure the little beast out. I have removed the clutch twice. Yesterday I removed the shoes to see if there was a issue with the pivot point such as corrosion, there was a little bit but a touch of 600 grit sandpaper and a coating on never seize and I thought I was good. Then I noticed that when the shoes were in place and everything was tightened down there was a drag on the shoes. I had put things back together the same way it came apart, someone had been in there before and the washers and spring washers were on one side, sorted that out and It seemed to work easier. Put is all the way back together and it still doesn't turn the motor.

Any ideas of what I need to do?

John in Texas

Have you tried comparing the clutch with the parts bike , if that works OK ?

Oh man, that parts bike has just about everything I need. My roller, with an engine in a box, needs ,

one tank badge, headlight ring, left side cover, headlight switch, and brake light switch,

Is that a Motobecane, or a Wards Riverside? Virtually identical, except for the tank badge. Mine was also missing the piston, cylinder, intake, and carb, and the cylinder head/motor mount spacers, but I have all that now. I have the leg shields, but not the mounting hardware. I see yours has the left , and head-tube mounts still on the bike.

......................but I give it all up, for a dent free rear fender.

Hmm. I'd say either you diddnt rough up the clutch pads enough with sandpaper. Or the previous owner may have gotten oil in there.

My buddy had a similar problem with his years back. We just pulled the variator/clutch assy Off of a parts 50v and threw it on his. Worked like a charm...I'm not sure your bike is the same exact model tho..

Diddnt last very long as he ended up throwing one of those nos crate engines on it.

My parts bike is a Wards Riverside. Like yours it has a tag on the rear fender.

I soaked the shoes in brake clean with no improvement.

Been thinking about the woodruff key in the crank, it doesn't protrude much above the crank and maybe it isn't locking the drum securely? I did take the key out of the parts bike and it is exactly the same.

It was suggested I use a drill to start the motor but I don't think that would work. If I put a 14mm socket on nut the left end of the crank it would just back it off. Same think with the right side with the left hand nut.

I have installed new tires and plan to clean the carb tomorrow, just to give myself some sort of accomplishment on the old girl.

Thanks all for your thoughts and input.

John in Texas

I can turn it over by hand, no problem.

John in Texas

The bike only has around 650 miles on it (by the speedometer) and the pads do look good but I'm more than willing to take a file to the shoes to get more contact from them. It looks like it could be the fix I'm looking for.

Thank you for your insight, I would never have thought of it. A status report will follow.

John in Texas

Well the plug has been out of it so needing to use the decompressor isn't a factor at this time. I removed the clutch again. What a pain! the inner circlip is difficult to get out without the proper long leg snap ring plyers for outside snap rings.

With the clutch out of the way I installed the clutch drum back on the crankshaft and it would turn over. Cleaned the shoes, sanded them, and cleaned the drum again with brake clean. Reinstalled the clutch and drum and I am back to square one. Thinking that the drum isn't seated on the taper.

The clearance between the shoes and the drum are minimal. Going to get a small can of acetone and spray it on the shoes.