Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Drake Abrahamsson /

So for background, I did everything mentioned on this (https://mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,4301134) thread. I thoroughly cleaned the tank with oxalic acid (awesome method btw), cleaned piston head, new spark plug, put on a temperature gauge, reset timing, serviced cam and follower (which fixed point skipping issue) including replaced and oiled the felt on the stator, sanded pitting on cam lightly, and cleaned points. I took it for another spin today and I rode probably 5-8 miles and it died on me once around half way through the ride but no biggie, started back up again when the light turned green. The temperature stayed around 240-270*F except for when I took it up a steep hill right by my house at the very end of my ride then it got up to 340. I got off and walked next to it, but it still sounded like it was bogging. It stopped running as soon as I got to my driveway. I let it cool a bit, then tried to start it a few times. It didn’t work and when I DID get it to start it died when I stopped revving it. Ugh. Took the spark plug out, it was DARK (picture attached) and the piston looked dark again as well from shining a flashlight into the spark plug hole (also attached). I’ve also replaced the float needle but it still sometimes leaks. Running a 72 jet w 14mm bing, treats 70cc kit w/ hi comp head, tecno circuit pipe, all on an e50. Ideas? Thanks!

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Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

And you changed the plug to a new one and it started ????

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

The plug indicates you're running too rich, downjet. If your float is leaking you need to clean the float passage in your carb

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

♣Slew Foot♣ /

No no no I got this nailed check your exhaust make sure it ain't clogged your timing is off and the top is super cool and your pipe is cherry red you're lucky it didn't break off

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Overpriced Parts /

If your float needle leaks you’re done/bike will leave you stuck.

You got a polish the inside brass Seat in carb or pop it out and replace it with a replacement one that is either new or known not to leak, and you have to be careful doing that because there are a few different lengths for brass seats depending on the carburetor, it could be your float is no good either or set wrong too.

You cannot leave your house if your carburetor leaks in anyway shape or form !

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

> Overpriced Parts Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> You cannot leave your house if your carburetor leaks in anyway shape or

> r form !

Or , this might happen :

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Drake Abrahamsson /

> You got a polish the inside brass Seat in carb or pop it out and

> d replace it with a replacement one that is either new or known not to

> leak, and you have to be careful doing that because there are a few

> different lengths for brass seats depending on the carburetor, it could

> be your float is no good either or set wrong too.

Okay yeah I skipped the polish step because I thought mine looked good lol I'll go back and do that. I couldn't find any replacement seats on treatland for a 14mm round Bing. I might remember hearing you have to replace the whole body if that happens?

Float is parallel with where the bowl sits when upside down, so I think that means it's set correctly? Or does the amount of gas that the float is closing at more important? The Travis tutorial video had him just setting it to perfectly flat when upside down but if there's a more proper way to do it, please educate me! I really want to get this right. The float floats too btw, checked that when I first took it out.

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Drake Abrahamsson /

> P D Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Overpriced Parts Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > You cannot leave your house if your carburetor leaks in anyway shape

> or

>

> > r form !

>

> Or , this might happen :

>

> http://www.bic-news.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/scooter-fire.jpg

Oh man, okay.

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Drake Abrahamsson /

> ♣Slew Foot♣ Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> No no no I got this nailed check your exhaust make sure it ain't clogged

> your timing is off and the top is super cool and your pipe is cherry red

> you're lucky it didn't break off

I will check it, but the pipe is brand new, do you think it'd really be clogged? Timing is 16 deg and not skipping around like it was during the last discussion. I think I could diagnose this better if I understood how heat is pushed into the pipe. How does the cylinder/head stay cool while the pipe gets super hot? Thank you

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Overpriced Parts /

> Drake Abrahamsson Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > ♣Slew Foot♣ Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > No no no I got this nailed check your exhaust make sure it ain't

> clogged

>

> > your timing is off and the top is super cool and your pipe is cherry

> red

>

> > you're lucky it didn't break off

>

> I will check it, but the pipe is brand new, do you think it'd really be

> clogged? Timing is 16 deg and not skipping around like it was during the

> last discussion. I think I could diagnose this better if I understood

> how heat is pushed into the pipe. How does the cylinder/head stay cool

> while the pipe gets super hot? Thank you

Think of it like this in away:

The pipe/chamber is the supercharger, the more advance timing the more boost

25F4FAD9-AEB5-419A-86E6-C55E13E4E5C3.gif

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

Drake Abrahamsson /

> Overpriced Parts Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Drake Abrahamsson Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > > ♣Slew Foot♣ Wrote:

>

> >

>

> > > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> >

>

> > > No no no I got this nailed check your exhaust make sure it ain't

>

> > clogged

>

> >

>

> > > your timing is off and the top is super cool and your pipe is cherry

>

> > red

>

> >

>

> > > you're lucky it didn't break off

>

> >

>

> > I will check it, but the pipe is brand new, do you think it'd really

> be

>

> > clogged? Timing is 16 deg and not skipping around like it was during

> the

>

> > last discussion. I think I could diagnose this better if I understood

>

> > how heat is pushed into the pipe. How does the cylinder/head stay cool

>

> > while the pipe gets super hot? Thank you

>

> Think of it like this in away:

>

> The pipe/chamber is the supercharger, the more advance timing the more

> boost

> >

Great! With that and a YouTube video or two, it makes sense now! & I also understand why pipes have differing power bands. This stuff keeps getting cooler, thanks for the help! I'll check my pipe tomorrow and re-time closer to 14-15 if that sounds about right?

Re: Solved previous problems, all was good, more arose

♣Slew Foot♣ /

If you look up in the wiki there are many tuning manuals some from Racers from the 70s I forget the names off of hand I think it's Jennings and Bell and it goes through the finest minutest details of how to get the most out of your engine

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