> Nick Haber Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > > live ɘvil Wrote:
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> >
>
> > > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
>
> > > > Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > > Tonight I'm going to remove the fender and inspect the junction in
>
> > the
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> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > > harness, hopefully I find my answer there
>
> >
>
> > >
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> >
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> > > Remove tail light and see if spade connections are crossed.
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> >
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> > >
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> >
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> > > 99% chance its something you put back wrong somewhere on bike.
>
> >
>
> > I removed the tail light and checked, everything was in order. Looks
>
> > like I'm going to have to make a new wiring harness from
>
> > scratch......sigh
>
> That's a bit overboard I think, surely it'd be easier to check check all
> the wires in the stop light/ignition circuit
I agree,
Creating a new wiring harness would be a last resort I believe.
There are still a couple of variables to consider:
1.) You have a European model and are referring to a U.S. wiring schematic.
2.) There's the Zener Diode to consider in all of this. That diode could be used for a couple of reasons.
3.) The wiring schematic shows normally open brake switches instead of normally closed brake switches. Both types were widely used and even look the same on the outside. One has to test on bike or with a multimeter.
More detective work is needed.
The most important clues are:
No spark until blue wire is grounded.
Brake light works when engine dies. (edited)