> J D Wrote:
> Was hoping that ID'ing the coil ends would present a more robust
> solution. Think I'll follow the recommendation on AC/DC LEDs. More
> wires makes more opportunities for trouble later. Also takes up more
> room/cramped. Not sure what all the Vapor does but seems like a lot of
> effort for an accessory. But you've got it so go for it. Biggest
> problem for me would be figuring out how to isolate all the light
> sockets once I had a DC and GND line run to each since I'm using stock
> fixtures and sockets, otherwise they would still see the AC ground
> through their connection to the chassis. May be super simple but I
> think it will be self regulated/rectified bulbs for me.
> WRT voltages and such, I don't think that it would be "half" the voltage
> (as in volts) but half the frequency. Not 100% on magnetos but (seems
> like) freq is likely dependant on engine speed so more flicker at idle.
> It didn't look like the coil can center tapped so you get what you get
> as far as output voltage goes. I ran a sim in one of those online
> circuit sims and it seemed like it would be a (relatively) fast cycle,
> even at idle speeds. That's just a sim though, not real world. Even if
> the rest of the world didn't notice, I'd know. Probably wear out lights
> faster as well, but just another (slightly) educated guess on my part.
> You basically already have a 1/2 wave with just the LED but they are
> more sensitive to voltage fluctuation than a regular silicone switching
> **Edit: I also ran a sim with a full wave rectifier and it kept failing
> with an over current/short in the diode bridge.
> I think that using a 1/2 wave rectifier, maybe an in-line diode, you'd
> still probably want a regulator. Like you said, stuff is complicated,
> but putting the negative AC on ground would create some additional
> problems as now your ground and rectified voltages are constantly at
> varying differences in potential. Not sure how much a regulator would
> do to help with that but at least it's a measure that could be
> implemented. Then again, that could be 100 incorrect. Just thinking it
> out in my head. Maybe some additional noise from the ignition since it
> is on the same ground? Now I'm just throwing out random stuff.
> The .PDF that I posted the link for (second link) is for installation of
> the Trail Tech voltage rectifier/reg on a bike. The instructions
> weren't very verbose but then again, maybe they figure it just works
> without explaining all the theory behind it.
> Hope that your solution works out for you. Good Luck and post some more
> pics once you've got it put together!
You should see what my moped looks like right now... It's just a freshly painted frame. I'm into this thing so deep, I can't see anything as extra work anymore haha.
I'm happy with using the trail tech rectifier since it has good reviews and the wiring will be simple. I don't mind running grounds back to the DC ground. Also, just because my headlight is mounted to the frame, as long as the electrical connections AKA wires or light leads don't touch the frame it's fine. So mounting the headlight to the forks like stock should not be an issue i dont think.
Honestly though, I really wanted to just reuse all the stock wiring, but I'm in too deep now haha.
I'll post back in here with updates. Front and rear LED. Should be bright. For me I think this system will be more worthwhile than the AC Led combo lights.