Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Hi

I'm new to moped world and it appears that my 2002 Tomos Sprint has a leak from the left pedal. I've read somewhere that there's a bolt I can buy that has a rubber gasket on it to replace a stock one that is leaky.

Dose any one have know where to buy this? Or what it's called?

Would it be possible to just put a gasket sealer on the existing bolt?

Or use Lucas transmission stop leak fixed on it?

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Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

todd amundson /
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Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Moped Lar (OFMC) /

They all leak over time. Just keep a close eye on your tranny fluid level.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Cool thanks. Any thoughts on putting Lucas stop leak in the tranny? My is a bit slow to shift.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

That bolt is expensive. Would it be possible to find a similar one at a hardware store and a rubber gasket? Especially a flanged nut?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

> Terry Dorman Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> That bolt is expensive. Would it be possible to find a similar one at a

> hardware store and a rubber gasket? Especially a flanged nut?

Its a specialty item, it's not an unreasonable cost.

Instead you could disassemble the engine and replace the internal main drive gear, which is about $100 new...or you could have the needle bearings in your drive gear pulled and replaced with a new O ring between them, which would be no less than $100...

Or you could ride it as is and be a victim of the black wheel of death that tomos are infamous for.

Stop leak is not recommended, it will mess up your transmission.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

I fell it is totally worth the $20. About the only think to slow the leaking. I have seen fresh bottom end rebuilds start the black tire of death after one ride.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Wow thanks for the info.

I just bought the bolt. Thought the stop leak would help too but guess not.

Is there anything I can do for slow shifting?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

> Terry Dorman Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Wow thanks for the info.

>

> I just bought the bolt. Thought the stop leak would help too but guess

> not.

>

> Is there anything I can do for slow shifting?

What do you mean by "slow shifting"?

Do you want it to shift later at a higher speed? Or do you want it to shift earlier?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

I don't really care when it shifts I just seems like it struggles to shift.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

What kinda fluid are you running in the case?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

> Baron Von Hamilton Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I fell it is totally worth the $20. About the only think to slow the

> leaking. I have seen fresh bottom end rebuilds start the black tire of

> death after one ride.

I've know people with factory new tomos all leaked in under 300 mi.

it's whatever. clean the wheel, paint it black, and then it blends in!

"the tomos black wheel of death" aka "tomosing" aka "tomos auto-chain-lube"

even those seal nuts don't last forever. you still get some leak by eventually.

you could try to put sealer on it but it won't work, for one it's already oily so it wont adhere well even after diligent brake cleaner blasting etc. it'll just look messy and steal leak. do NOT use leakseal though. or anything that goes in your trans fluid. that's very much not for small engines and has a large likelihood of creating other significant transmission issues.

I've got a sachs right now that's tomosing pretty badly through the pedal shaft seal but I just keep an eye on the fluid levels and enjoy the ride.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Thanks for all the info and responses.

Aaron I'm running wolf head synthetic automatic transmission fluid. The guy at my part store said it was good.

Anyone have any other input about slow or hard shifting?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Moped Lar (OFMC) /

Sounds like the cork linings on your clutch segments are shot. Pull the tranny cover and have a look see.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

This^^^

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

follow the "handy guide" link in the description on treats for that sprocket nut when you install it. It gives you a better understanding of where it leaks and how to eliminate leaks in all of the problem areas. I followed that guide when installing that nut on my A35 and haven't had any leaks yet although I've only put 7-8 hours on my engine since rebuilding it and installing this nut.

If your engine is shifting rough then chances are you have either worn out clutch pads, a worn out counter shaft, and/or a missing sprag clip. It could be one of these things or a combination of all of them. The longer you ride with bad clutch pads, the faster you'll wear out your counter shaft and need to replace it too.

So if I was you I'd check the pads as soon as you can if you haven't already, especially if the bike is new to you.

When you open up the right side of the engine the components from left to right are: pedal shaft (kickstart shaft if that's the model you have) , counter shaft (sprag clip lives on the back side of this), and clutch bell.

You will need to actually take the clutch bell off in order to inspect all of your clutch material. You can see your first gear clutch without removing it but not your second gear. In order to remove the clutch you'll need to be able to stop the piston from moving while you remove the nut. You can achieve this by either purchasing a piston stop from treats and threading it down the plug hole before trying to remove the nut. If you go this route remove the nut very slowly at first so you don't slam the top of your piston into the piston stop. Alternately you can run some nylon rope down into the plug hole while removing the nut and achieve the same results. You can also use a strap wrench on the magneto while removing the clutch which is what most people would probably recommend.

While you're at it, go ahead and remove the counter shaft and make sure your sprag clip is present. To do this you'll need to remove both pedal arms and the clutch bell. Once you do this, the pedal shaft and counter shaft will slide out together. Then you can check to see if there is any play on the gears on your counter shaft and make sure the sprag clip is present ( this is a little question mark shaped spring and is attached to the back side of the counter shaft). If it isn't there you'll want to get one and install it. If there's any play in the gears on the shaft or if there's a bunch of teeth missing on either gear you'll probably want to replace that as well. Keep track of where all your shims go while doing this and make sure they go back in the same places during reassembly or you're going to have a bad time.

All of these things can lead to it shifting rough, however the sprag clip is the not as important as the others. The bike can run and shift without it just fine but it will shift better if it is there. That being said, if you end up kitting that bike you'll just keep breaking that clip.

If you're wanting the bike to shift later, the best way to go about this is to put heavier springs on the second gear clutch. If you're bike is completely stock I wouldn't worry about this too much.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Buddy

Thanks so much for your indepth response.

I'll have to see if I can find a YouTube video that does a break down of what you said. To see all parts and what not.

The strap wrench keeps it from falling because it's so to speak stuck by the strap? I've never used one. Sorry for the dumb question.

My bike has a biturbo muffler now and depending on costs of this tear down repair I was thinking of upgrading to Estoril Performance Exhaust to gain some speed and make it more quite. Is it true it's quieter than the biturbo?

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Never used an estoril but biturbo's are pretty loud so i wouldn't be surprised.

strap wrench looks something like this

https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-strap-24-in-32020/i/G5385947/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3uOb5vOd4gIVnLXACh1aZgYcEAQYASABEgLDI_D_BwE

Put the strap around your magneto and use it to hold the crank into place while you remove the nut holding your clutch bell on.

Most people recommend this as it keeps you from pressing your piston up against anything and risking damaging it in any way. If you do end up buying a piston stop get the extra long one that treats sells. That's what I use and haven't broken anything yet while using it. You do have to be a little more careful though when you go this route.

Basically when you try to remove the nut holding on your clutch bell you'll end up just spinning the crankshaft and never be able to loosen the nut unless you use one of the methods I listed above.

Using a strap wrench is not only the safest method but you can probably get one locally without having to get it shipped to you.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

The link only shows the website with tolls for me. I screen shot one is that what I need? Thanks so much for all the info. Guess I have my project for the next few weeks. Haha

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

> Buddy Shirey Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Never used an estoril but biturbo's are pretty loud so i wouldn't be

> surprised.

>

> strap wrench looks something like this

>

> https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-strap-24-in-32020/i/G5385947/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3uOb5vOd4gIVnLXACh1aZgYcEAQYASABEgLDI_D_BwE

>

> Put the strap around your magneto and use it to hold the crank into

> place while you remove the nut holding your clutch bell on.

>

> Most people recommend this as it keeps you from pressing your piston up

> against anything and risking damaging it in any way. If you do end up

> buying a piston stop get the extra long one that treats sells. That's

> what I use and haven't broken anything yet while using it. You do have

> to be a little more careful though when you go this route.

>

> Basically when you try to remove the nut holding on your clutch bell

> you'll end up just spinning the crankshaft and never be able to loosen

> the nut unless you use one of the methods I listed above.

>

> Using a strap wrench is not only the safest method but you can probably

> get one locally without having to get it shipped to you.

You should only use a strap wrench on the same side of the crankshaft that youre working on. Otherwise youre putting torsion on the crank and thats no good.

Either use rope or a piston stop for the clutch side, because you can't hold the crank with a strap wrench on that side.

Re: Leaky tranny on chain and wheel

Overpriced Parts /

> Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Buddy Shirey Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > Never used an estoril but biturbo's are pretty loud so i wouldn't be

>

> > surprised.

>

> >

>

> > strap wrench looks something like this

>

> >

>

> >

> https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-strap-24-in-32020/i/G5385947/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3uOb5vOd4gIVnLXACh1aZgYcEAQYASABEgLDI_D_BwE

>

> >

>

> > Put the strap around your magneto and use it to hold the crank into

>

> > place while you remove the nut holding your clutch bell on.

>

> >

>

> > Most people recommend this as it keeps you from pressing your piston

> up

>

> > against anything and risking damaging it in any way. If you do end up

>

> > buying a piston stop get the extra long one that treats sells. That's

>

> > what I use and haven't broken anything yet while using it. You do have

>

> > to be a little more careful though when you go this route.

>

> >

>

> > Basically when you try to remove the nut holding on your clutch bell

>

> > you'll end up just spinning the crankshaft and never be able to loosen

>

> > the nut unless you use one of the methods I listed above.

>

> >

>

> > Using a strap wrench is not only the safest method but you can

> probably

>

> > get one locally without having to get it shipped to you.

>

> You should only use a strap wrench on the same side of the crankshaft

> that youre working on. Otherwise youre putting torsion on the crank and

> thats no good.

>

> Either use rope or a piston stop for the clutch side, because you can't

> hold the crank with a strap wrench on that side.

You don’t even need a piston stop, and it’s not good to use one either because it will damage bearings and wrist pin/crack piston at wrist pin, leave the top end on, one zip with impact and I’ll come right off, the crane will barely even move

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