Hi everybody,
So recently one of my exhaust studs has rusted through and broke off.
I got the rest of the stud out of my cilinder but all the replacements are wayy too
expensive here. I was wondering if i could use a long stud from the hardware store like this one; https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-draadeind-rvs-m6-x-1000-mm/p/B450528, cut it up, and just use it like that. Would that be a good idea?
Just use an M6 cap head bolt if they're too expensive.
Threaded rod is bad news, in terms of stretching
do you think a threaded rod will stretch more than the standard exhaust studs?
> Finn Thor Heyer Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> do you think a threaded rod will stretch more than the standard exhaust
> studs?
Absolutely, it is not hardened. Use a M6 cap bolt.
what about cutting the top of a bolt and use that?
> Finn Thor Heyer Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> what about cutting the top of a bolt and use that?
By the time you buy a tap to chase the threads for this home made stud, and the bolt itself, you could have purchased a stud.
You seem to be deadset on using a stud. Maybe just buying one would give you what you're looking for.
i was looking at those yeah, but the problem is that
alluminium will rot away faster when i use ss studs or just normal steel studs.
it has to do with the nobility of the metals. Galvanized bolts are steel with a
layer of zinc. Now that zinc is less noble then alluminium it should degrade faster am i right?
just use a bolt w a washer allen head if theres no space and change every 3 yrs b4 it rusts out.
dude it doesn't have to be so complicated. Dirty D gave you various options.
Brass compression thread...star lockwasher it will flex and give and when it does go it is easy to fix...
Honda Civic manifold stud. Any parts store on the planet should have em in stock, no?
Is something like this really more than a few USD equiv where you are? Otherwise, +++ on the 6mm black oxide Allen head bolt. 10.9 grade or so. Get a few longish ones, 50mm 'bout. Don't need a die to chase the cut thread. Thread a nut on the good side and when it comes off the cut side it'll align the thread good enough. Wire wheel the rest if needed. (edited)
And these make excellent nuts for the exhaust studs when you can find them.
Brass 6mm "standoffs" or "threaded rod connectors".
Extended flats are easy to get to with a socket and engage lots of thread without fear of stripping. (edited)
I just got schooled in Metal Hierarchy by reading this thread. Thank you. Who knew studs were so complicated....
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