MOPED ARMY

check your lights/electrics. could just be a bulb that blew that cut the circuit. are you running a voltage regulator? that extra power brings it over the 6v the electrics are meant to run at

also, check out your carb, could be something in the jets (edited)

What electrical system do you have? Sometimes a failing HT coil or condenser can cause these symptoms.

Regular spark test, holding it against the head and turning the engine over, also removed the head with the plug installed to make sure it was sparking when installed in the head. Compression tester to determine compression (150 psi)

Removed fuel line at petcock, has flow, removed at carb has flow, removed float bowl, still has flow

Yes, I used a timing light. Points and lobe look tight and correct in every way I can see

If the coil, condenser, or HT Coil are not functioning properly it is hard to tell with sparking it on the head. If you use a timing light on the timing mark you could tell if the mark disappears or the light is not flashing at times. But I thing the issuer is in the electronics

CDI is cheap Chinese junk and unreliable. Puch stock points stators are bulletproof and very reliable. If you've gone thru several, it's not the stator's fault, you're doing something wrong. (edited)

What is your experience with them? I've only heard positive things, so I'm curious. I was considering purchasing the v2 cdi party from treats, but again I would love to hear the negatives about it.

The trigger burns up easy. Had 4 fail. It sometimes fries the CDI box when that happens. Replacing the trigger with the MBK trigger is a good option but needs to be trimmed town.

I think the puch trigger fails because it rubs on the flywheel sometimes. Had a few friends with this issue. If you get one check for the clearance issues.

https://www.treatland.tv/pietcard-CDI-internal-coil-3055-bosch-puch-p/pietcard-cdi-3055.htm

Good info on the reviews. The right number flywheel is the key.

I have gave up on them and either run the brown Pietcard coil and 2041 box. Time it with out the key way or go with an HPI. Graham said he had luck with the brown Picard and Jog box. I did not get my setup to fire with this so I stuck with the 2041. Either way I think Picard is a better option and will give you a curve. (edited)

I didn’t see you say the plug was coming out wet with gas after trying to start it. It could be that the carb is spotless and gas is still not getting to the combustion chamber. I had a Derbi with bad crank seals that did this. Just my two cents.

Condensers can become weak and produce a weak spark . Just because a plug shows spark outside , in open air , does not mean it does the same thing inside the combustion chamber when under a much greater amount of pressure .

It's recommended to have a fat blue spark when outside . If the spark is yellow and anemic it may not spark at all under pressure .

A good strong spark should be able to jump near a half inch or more .

I was having similar problems with an e50 I rebuilt, I changed the condenser, and the points. It ended up being the HT coil.

Yep....I would try the HT coil first. It is easier. If that does not do it swap the condenser.

I love the treats cdi with peitcard box. Mine has been going strong for a long time. Was on another bike for an unknown amount of time and then on my daily rider for about 8 months now. A lighting coil did fry for some reason though.

And the answer is HT coil!

Now I'm back to the issue of autoignition. I believe it to be a jetting issue. Working with the jets I've got, 84 is too lean (white plug on plug chop) and 90 is too rich (bogging out and 4 stroke). Tomorrow I'm going to my buddies part shop to get more jets and continue tuning.

I have also retarded the timing back from full advance after adding a 70cc hi comp head. That adjustment seems to have helped with the heating issues, but I'm still running too hot.

Must investigate further

You burn some sage around the engine.