I recently received a stator from Dos Cycles for my Hobbit and it is different than any of the ones I have. It has a pink wire instead of a yellow wire, some of the ends are dual connectors instead of singles, the resistance on the coils is much different (higher) than specified, there is no cloth covering on the coils and coil wires look thicker than factory spec. Anyone care to venture a guess as what it could be. I think it looks like a rebuilt one myself. Jack
A pic might help .
It's for the Hobbit clones and they have a 12v lighting coil which is why the resistance is higher.
Ryan: Couple of questions:
Will the clone work if I only use it on the ignition circuit.?
I have two OEM stator coils and both are bad, in that they all show either no ohms or very poor resistance on the coils. I tested both with different VOMs and the points were open so I am sure of my readings. I it possible that I ruined the coils while trying to test for spark?
I know you can rewind the coils but are there places to buy Hobbit coils or have them rebuilt?
Thanks Jack
I think we are talking about different things. Are you trying to say that the new stator is points and the ignition coil resistance readings are high?
They only list a CDI stator on their site so I believe I have answered my own question. Why are you even considering Frankenstein matching a CDi coil onto a points igniton? They are different in about every way that they could be.
If you are referring to the lighting coil then no, you could never damage it with any spark test as it is in no way connected to the ignition system and the power that the ignition puts out is such a minute amperage it couldn't do anything anyway.
I have never, ever seen a stock moped stator coil damaged by anything other than physical means. You just can't load them enough to do any kind of damage. Even confined in a flywheel cover they do just fine for decades. (edited)
Ryan:
This nothing to do with CDI ignitions or HT coils.
I have three points stator coils. Two OEM and one we determined is a clone. The coils on both OEM stators are not giving me the ohms readings as stated in the manual. The weird thing is that while each coil reading is different from the manual, they are the same as each other. For example, R/G 2.8 ohms both stators, R/Y 3.2 both stators, G/Y 1.0 both stators and the bad one BW/G 0.0 both stators. I can not see any visible damage to the coils. However, I order to remove the stator I loosened the coils so I could get a puller in there, but I was very careful about everything. And I did replace the points while I was at it.
The clone gives me the following R/G 3.6 ohms, R/P (pink) 0.3, G/P (pink) 3.2, BW/G 3.2.
Your thoughts please. Jack
Then change them out if you want but it will not be a direct swap because they will produce different power. You will need a regulator and different bulbs.
Ryan:
What do you mean by regulator?
Jack
New coil outputs 12v not 6v. Solution is a 6v regulator attached to the output of your lighting coil.
Arron: will the ignition circuit work with the clone stator and where does one purchase a regulator for a moped. Thanks Jack
Just install the lighting coils on your points stator. To say again the ignition and lighting are completely separate. Get a regulator on Treats. Somehow I refuse to believe with all of the tinkering you've done that you have never been on Treats.
Or just install the entire cdi stator setup but be ready to wire the cdi box and a new HT coil.
Ryan: lets go back to the original OEM stator. I went and removed the Treats points from the stator and retested the exciter coil and the ohms reading was correct. The coil is good. So why when the points are installed does it give a bad reading. I tested them with the points both physically open and with a insulator. Any suggestions. Jack
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