MOPED ARMY

https://www.facebook.com/Anthony0313V/videos/2003403333103960/

Sounds like you are leaking through the seals when it gets warmed up, time to replace them especially given all the other repairs you’ve done. Inspect/replace top end gaskets too if possible. Worth it in the long run, and replace the bad gear ASAP

Ok update , I did a complete ducking *quack* rebuild and same issue , so I’m guessing it’s either the top end (I didn’t take the top end apart) . And now that I think about , when I give it power the bogging sound does come from the top end , maybe the gasket I placed in is faulty ? And when I first took the top end off there was no gasket between the piston and the top part so I placed one there. The carb was also soaked in carb cleaner and cleaned thoroughly looks almost new lol . Changed all seals and still nothing . At least my sprocket side won’t leak oil anymore

Sorry I did a half ass rebuild lol , Im taking off the top end tomorrow , I really think my issue is the gaskets up front

That makes two of us lol, I’ve even asked a moped shop near where I live and they are confused too as to what’s going on with my bike , I’m calling it out right now that it’s my front end gaskets, the bogging sound seems to come from the exhaust,

and the last 2 pics , at least my oil leak is gone ...

That's not bogging, that sounds like 4 stroking. You are jetted too rich, or you have an air restriction somewhere.

Have you also verified your timing is correct?

so i found something new today , the port where the exhaust pipe connects to the head has a leak , i can see oil seeping out , and after i checked all over for leaks and i torqued the bolts , my rear wheel stopped spinning on idle , also changed my air filter as the old one completely busted into pieces. theoretically would a small leak in the exhaust port cause the engine to struggle at 1st gear ? as for the timing im waiting for the puller. and as for the seal , it was weird because both sides look like that lol. actually its dual lipped

https://www.treatland.tv/tomos-A3-A35-A55-engine-seals-GREEN-set-p/tomos-seal-green-set.htm

No. No RTV of any kind anywhere near a moped. Ever. You're doing everything wrong so far. My best advice to you is put down the wrenches, and spend a solid month READING AND LEARNING how mopeds, and two stroke motors work. Then pick up your tools. I'm not being rude here, but you are asking the wrong questions, and not understanding people's answers at all. Educate yourself. There is so much information you need to learn, and you can find it all on this site. READ READ READ.

what carb?

85 is a massive jet in a 14 Phva. Try a 64-75 jets and report back. If its the 17 Phva I'm not sure on jetting, sometimes a bigger carb requires a smaller jet. On this ciao I was working on yesterday i went from a 12/10 to a 12/12 and had to down jet. The difference between a lean bog and a rich bog is pretty audible. A rich bog will change tones completely as it takes 2 full rotations of the crankshaft to expel the gases. A lean bog will sound more or less the same as normal, but a little more hoarse or if it is really lean want to stall out completely. A magneto side seal leak will also behave rich or cause a bike to have a stutter from the loss of case pressure. Did you replace the right side crank shaft seal as well?

Sage advice that I think many don't realize for a long time.

It would not cause the issues you seem to be having, no.

If you have the stock cylinder and stock exhaust, an 85 jet is too large by far. In addition, a 17.5mm carb will not perform better than a 14mm if you have a 14mm intake still.

I have a lot of experience with the 14 and 17.5 PHVA, and an 85 main jet is usually a solid starting point for a 65-70cc kit with an exhaust. Idle jets between 32-38 usually.

With the stock cylinder and an exhaust, you would likely find yourself anywhere from the high 60's to low-mid 70's main jet.

When I said that an exhaust leak typically would not cause running issues, I was referring to slight leaks. A large leak at the flange could cause issues, but I doubt that is your problem in this case.

Given the fact that your jetting is not way off, or at least not as far off as originally thought, I would replace the magneto side seal before you continue. Be certain you reinstall the stator plate exactly where it came from, and that you do not lose the flywheel pin/key. When you remove the magneto side cover, look for oily liquid seepage, which would be indicative of a bad leak.

And remember when replacing seals, the hollow side should face the pressurized side of things. (Given that logic, I never understood why the clutch side seal faces the transmission instead of the crankcase on an e50 though)

Great! Odd though, typically if the idle screw is set so far rich that you 4 stroke like that, the bike would usually not idle, so something as simple as that did not come to mind.