Stainless Steel bolts

Hi, I'm a newbie here - and am just starting a 1982 Suzuki FZ50 renovation as a first project on mopeds.

Can anyone advise about the suitability of stainless steel fastenings/bolts/screws?

These were not originally fitted on my moped - mine appear to be (badly damaged) JIS crosshead - and are proving difficult to extract.

As a result, I need to source new ones. I know 'original' ones are available, albeit expensive relatively.

I've seen sets of stainless steel cap head Allen bolts available, but am worried about their suitability.

I know purists would say stick with the OEM products to stay faithful to the original - but I'd like to know what the pros and cons are of using stainless.

Thanks and regards

MikeW

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

stainless is pretty weak, i use it to hold plastics, once its thick enough 8mm, it fine.

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

Stainless is fine for holding covers and such in place .

It might be a good idea to use a dab of anti-seize on the threads of any fasteners you end up using .

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

As stated above, stainless is not as strong as 'regular' steel bolts.

I say 'regular', but there are several different tensile strength classifications;

4.6 4.8 5.8 8.8 9.8 10.9 12.9 the higher the number the stronger the bolt.

Most common are 4.6 8.8 12.9, these numbers appear on the top of many, but not all, bolts. As a guide, stainless A2 and A4 would be ROUGHLY equivalent to 4.8

As for suitability on mopeds and similar I would advise the following;

DON'T use them on strength critical fittings such as shock absorbers.

DO use them on cosmetic stuff like fairings and on items where strength is not critical such as mud guards and luggage racks.

Use your own judgement on other items.

Maybe not a good idea on an exhaust that only uses one M8 bolt, But probably fine if the exhaust is held on with 3x M10 bolts

Hope this helps! Adrian

P.S. my first road legal moped was a 1981 FZ50 in red! (edited)

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

I just bought replacements for most of my bolts at Lowe's. They fit great and no problems. I did have to settle for a couple standard nuts instead of locknuts but I saved alot of money and time. I also found a good supplier for threadlocker so I don't really need locknuts.

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

Mike West /

thanks for the info guys - much appreciated!

/MikeW

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

Don't use stainless on aluminum. Stainless threads are sharp, and can easily seize, usually after you get them halfway in. Then it rips all the threads outta the aluminum, or the bolt snaps off, usually flush.

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

> baird co Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Don't use stainless on aluminum. Stainless threads are sharp, and can

> easily seize, usually after you get them halfway in. Then it rips all

> the threads outta the aluminum, or the bolt snaps off, usually flush.

Stainless is used in aluminum every day . It's the anti seize that makes a difference .

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

Yup. But they can still seize. There's a reaction between the two metals on a molecular level. I've had it happen, and have seen many motorcycle cases and parts ruined while installing stainless dress-up bolt kits.

But, do whatever you want.

Re: Stainless Steel bolts

> baird co Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Yup. But they can still seize. There's a reaction between the two metals

> on a molecular level. I've had it happen, and have seen many motorcycle

> cases and parts ruined while installing stainless dress-up bolt kits.

>

> But, do whatever you want.

Agreed . There can be some galling involved and that is usually not good .

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