Hi everyone,
I replaced the condenser in my Puch and put the flywheel back on. When I tried starting it, it backfired. I think this is a timing issue and I'm exhausted. It never backfired before. What steps do I go through to fix this timing issue? Thank you guys so much for your help.
I don't want to even ask how you removed the old condenser and installed and new one?
Yea like do you have it keyed?
Did you remove the startor when you installed the condensor? If so go back to step one.
I remember my first time
learning about time,
it was a great time
Welcome to tune-town
Stay awhile enjoy your time (edited)
Wait, what the hell is a startor? Keyed? I am pretty confused
I made a mark on the flywheel before using a flywheel puller and got it off that way. I then read the wiki and did as directed, desoldering the wires from the old condenser and then using pliers to pull it out. I put the new one in (which was a screw condenser from treatland), screwed the wires on, then pushed the flywheel cover back on while making sure it lined up exactly as before by using the mark I made. I then screwed the flywheel nut back on, making sure it was very snug.
After that, I was actually able to start the moped. It then died on me while I was attempting to adjust the idle because it was too weak when I gave it no throttle. When I tried to start it again, it backfired on me.
He meant stator, not startor. Did you remove your stator, was his question. And is your flywheel keyed? In other words, is your flywheel keyed? Wait, that's the same words. Did you reinstall the woodruff key in your flywheel/crank? How did you mark your flywheels? I'm confused by that one. Only s'posed to go on one way. Sounds like you jacked up your timing, didn't key your flywheel, and it's therefore firing erratically. You'll get it. Put it back the way it goes, and it won't backfire.
is there a way you guys can post a pic of how the woodruff key is supposed to be installed. does the flat part go into the threaded center rod or does the moon shaped end.
> kenny s Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> is there a way you guys can post a pic of how the woodruff key is
> supposed to be installed. does the flat part go into the threaded center
> rod or does the moon shaped end.
Flat part out, moon shaped into the crankshaft
If you didn't remove the stator and have keyed correctly then it should start right up.
Did you possibly install a damaged/cheap Condenser? Check the Timing, it could be off even without changing anything else.
Yep, curved side of the key goes in the crankshaft. Flat part out. Then lines up and slides into the groove on the flywheel to locate its magnets properly.
clean n gap points, check grounds clean n tight
Welcome to mopeds. Like country boy said the first go round with timing a bike is a pain. I took my fly wheel off like twenty times my first go round. gap the points while at tdc make sure the horn wire is grounded and be patient. a piston stop helps a ton also.
although im not the original poster, Im pretty much having the same problems. I read that when a bike is kitted I should change the timing but haven't yet. Also I took the plug cap thing off my coil and it looks all green and corroded. Im probably going to replace that. Its a 2 pin coil and I don't see any online. maybe I gotta buy a 1 pin and rewire it.
I also wanted to give some advice. I told my mechanic that my bike runs terribly and he took a new condenser from a mazda b2000 pickup truck and wired it externally to my coil. its a lot better idea than to remove the condenser and resolder a new one.
As a condenser ages it slows down, making the points pit.
The condenser is a set micofarad value .28 to .32mf.
Its purpose is to protect the points.
The screw condenser are junk and a .18mf.
That m3 nut loosen up or spins, makes your ignition backfire.
You gotta be kidding me, I bought the screw condenser... It was so difficult to install too. Soldering is definitely easier. I'll buy a solder condenser and then properly key my magneto when it's installed.
> Richard Eberline Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> As a condenser ages it slows down, making the points pit.
>
> The condenser is a set micofarad value .28 to .32mf.
>
> Its purpose is to protect the points.
>
> The screw condenser are junk and a .18mf.
>
> That m3 nut loosen up or spins, makes your ignition backfire.
So , I guess my brand new Bosch condenser embossed with 0.22µ is junk ?
Honestly , I've never seen a condenser marker any higher . I'm sure they exist , but ...
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