MOPED ARMY

picts of questionable tranny pieces would help, anyways the claw that has the peanut spring on it has to have a certain amount of friction on it to work right. it just doesn't fit in the slot... its gotta grab the slot, not sure how u measure rotational friction but its like two fingers pressed onto a table and moving it. short answer, u need to compress the peanut.

Here's the pedal shaft and claw collar that was in it on the last attempt. Also the final gear inside the case.

The clip on all there claw collars I have seems to be compressed pretty well. Maybe im not understanding what you meant.

Seems like when you pedal forwards the claw collar slides toward the final gear to pedal the bike. When you pedal backwards the claw slides towards the clutch cover engaging the chain attached to your countershaft and engaged the clutch.

So once you've started the bike, does the claw sit in a neutral position that keeps it from catching the chain gear that engages the clutch? Or does it go back to sitting pressed against the final gear?

Seems like if it got caught and was sticking to the chain gear thing that would maybe be what's causing the pedals to spin backwards and try to take my legs off when it starts.

I still don't quite understand why the last time it didn't do that at all but it wouldn't turn the back wheel either. Then after sitting idling for a minute, all of a sudden the the pedals catch and swing backwards again.

I've successfully rebuilt a few of these engines now and I've never seen this happen. Ironically, I've actually taken my time more with this build than any of the others and it's the only time I've seen this happen.

There's a shim that goes in between the claw collar and the finale gear. The pillow side faces inward towards the sprocket. Check all your shims make sure they are installed correctly.

check the clutch the cork shouldn't be touching the inside of the clutch drum you should have 1mm of space in between each shoe.

Check the first gear clutch make sure its not binding againts the clutch drum.Pull on the drum back and forth should have very little play the manual has the correct specs. (edited)

I've checked all of this EXCEPT there is definitely not a shim between the claw collar and final gear.

That has to be my problem. I've never seen a shim like that before when taking one of these apart but this is also the first time I've rebuilt one and actually replaced the final drive gear bearing on the stator side case. I'm guessing this shim got lost during the rebuild. Fortunately I have I think 3 more sets of cases in my shed that have the final gear attached to them. I'll check those when I get home and see if I can't track down one of those shims.

Pat, I'm not sure about the weld splatter. If you're talking about the silver that's showing on the raised section around the peanut shaped opening in the case I think that's actually just wear from getting hit by the claw collar spring or something. Can't say for sure though. This engine came from a friend who got it from one of the dam riders years ago. It could have been welded at one point but not since I've owned it.

I'm seriously hoping it's that shim that tomos forever mentioned because my clutches are all new and nothing is binding in the bell. All my shims are present except for the one under the claw collar. All the bearings and seals on the clutch cover are new.

Is this the shim I'm missing?

I was looking at the exploded diagram of the pedal start assembly on mopedjunkyard and according to that it seems like this should be the shim between the claw collar and final gear.

Seen here as part # 205-702

It's the only one from this diagram that I can't say I've laid eyes on while messing with it this past weekend.

I've definitely never seen it before. I'm just trying to figure out what exactly I'm looking for before I get home and start digging through my parts.

turn your claw collar around and make sure your pedal shaft is all the way in check your pedal shaft c clips when its proper in your case will butt up with out force (there nothing wrong with your parts) its the location of claw collar and pedal shaft wiggle the shit out them

I dig through all my stuff. I can't seem to find one of those shims anywhere in four sets of cases with final gears. They all look the same.

However when going through all my shit I realized when I replaced the pedal shaft seal on my clutch cover I put it in backwards and pushed all the way down to the bottom of where it normally sits. I guess I forgot how it was oriented when I went to replace it.

I'm wondering if that has anything to do with my issues now. I don't really see how a seal would cause that especially since the pedal shaft doesn't actually butt up against it or anything. Either way. I've fixed that now. If that was my issues I'm going to to feel really stupid.

Honestly I hope it does but if not I guess the hunt continues for this shim. I was sure I'd have one in my bin full of cases but if I don't find one or find a different solution soon I guess my next step will be ordering that shim from moped junkyard.

Yea it's possible for sure. I can't speak for this engine's history before it came to be. I will say it ran perfectly with all these same parts just fine up until my cylinder ate one of my wrist pin clips last October. That's when I broke it down for a fresh rebuild.

The brake plate slot is in its stop slot but it is a garelli rear wheel. So I am not using a tomos brake plate. That shouldn't matter.

I'm going to order that shim from moped junkyard since I didn't find one. In the meantime I just put a kickstart claw collar in and that fixed the pedal spinning issue as well as the rear wheel not spinning with the engine. I won't have functioning pedals for anything but kick-starting but who cares? Even if I brake down I'd be walking it as opposed to pedaling it. Engine is running strong anyway so that shouldn't be an issue anytime soon.

So I know I posted this a while ago but I wanted to post a follow up as i finally worked out the issue. Turns out it wasn't a problem with the transmission at all. I'd put a new parmakit CDI box on it and when I wired it up i had my ground and positive backwards on the box. So when the bike turned on the sprocket was spinning backward and the claw collar wasn't disengaging and therefore the the pedals were spinning backwards with the sprocket.

Either way i finally had a chance to work on it again yesterday and I figured I'd see what happened if I reversed the wires on the CDI. After I did that it turned over on the first kick and the problem was solved. I got to ride it again for the first time in over a year. God i missed that feeling. I'm just glad i can finally start turning it now and be able to ride again this season.

Is this fix still working? I’m having the same exact issues you described earlier^