DPC Ryan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ken Roff Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > You could be jetted very high and still seize
> > because unchecked timing is what makes the
> > temperature go high.
> > You need to be at the timing shown on graph at
> > your rpm or you will have unsustaining
> > head/combustion temps and boom
> >
> >
> >
> > Do not run your engine even after rebuild
> unless
> > you time it correctly and run a head temp
> gauge.
>
> That is the chart for an HPI ignition, and may
> have absolutely nothing to do with your bike. You
> haven't stated what ignition you have, stock or
> otherwise.
Yes it's a chart for Hpi and it shows what the timing needs to be at 8, 9 10,000 rpm whatever.
If you have static timed/no curve points ignition then you need to be at the lowest you can be and still make power which on a Puch is 14° before top dead center to to run cool at 9000 RPM but anything past that with a high rpm pipe/setup you cannot time low enough in most cases to sustain cool temperatures because you won't make enough power at low rpm to hit that rpm/speed so
that's why Hpi/curve ignition are needed for most performance application with the exception of the mild kit mild rpm set up,
Water or fan cooled engines can help/allow for bit higher timing