MOPED ARMY

You can use that metal mesh filter with that pipe just rejet accordingly

The black plastic assembly is the "Air box", it protects the filter from the elements as much as possible and also reduces intake noise. The little mesh filter will work, but they kind of suck.

Saabsonettguy . Wrote:

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You are 100% wrong I've used mesh filters on several dozen bikes,

Mesh filter gives 2x the power over the quiet, restrictive/made to go slow air box.

Most puchs all I do is remove airbox and sometimes (if 2hp and correct atomizer) I don't even have to up jet for a 5 mi gain with more power through the range.

This bike did a slow 29mph with stock airbox

Now it goes 35-40mph with mesh filter and different jetting

Timing before jetting.

If timed correctly 14-18 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) with good point gap (16-18 thousand of inch) http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing

And thick head gasket removed (1.5hp has thick gasket) and thin one installed,

About 56 to low 60s range for 212A atomizer and higher 60s to 70s range if 222 Atomizer.

You may have restricted 1.5hp exhaust or blocked exhaust that will need to be addressed too.

A added 5/16 in hole to both parts of pipe helps too.

Best is a aftermarket expansion chamber exhaust for most power but magnum cylinder are angle port so maxi pipes like circuit, Proma an Estroil won't fit with out mods and the pipes made for magnums are expensive.

I've cut off my stock header on my magnum II and used this cheep pipe, 60 jet, 212A atomizer and got to 40mph

http://www.treatland.tv/exhaust-chamber-p/chamber-black-28mm.htm

It looked good too

Thanks Ken. I did adjust timing last weekend and believe I got it to about 17 degrees. I used the screwdriver method to determine TDC though and had to eyeball the timing so hoping all is right. For gap I used feeler gauge so I know I'm good there.

Any idea where I can find directions for changing head gasket? I don't need to remove entire engine for that do I?

Also, regarding gaskets, I'm looking on Treats but don't see any Puch 50cc gaskets listed as "thin". Will this one work?

I have a 212 atomizer in there now so will follow your lead and go for a 60 jet.

For exhaust, I cannot get the end piece off my current pipe so a new one is probably the way to go. Why did you have to cut header pipe though? I thought the pipe you linked to is supposed to fit together with header. Doesn't header just slide in?

Thanks again. I appreciate your advice.

Question for Ken..

I bought the chamber exhaust you mentioned above but wondering why you cut the header on your Magnum? The chamber pipe seems to fit right over the header fine just like the old exhaust did. Did you cut it for performance reasons and if so, how far down did you cut it (i.e. how much should be left to connect into the chamber)?

Thanks

Gary Imh Wrote:

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You need to cut it for it to have expansion chamber waves that go back into the header pipe giving it a supercharger affect, if you leave the header uncut it'll just be a same as a stock non chamber exhaust.

Ok, maybe not headache loud, but very annoying loud, and yeah, i don't honestly see a difference in speed between them on my stock stuff. .

Kenneth: Please how did you choose your header length and what is the dimension?

Bad: That filter isn't high quality, might get two seasons till it rips the rubber.

Plumb: Yeah it's LOUD. Started my bike for guy at car show, his first words, "That intake noise is loud!. Ha!

(and a jbot kart style silencer in my future)

Thank you all!

edit

Saab: "The little mesh filter will work, but they kind of suck."

I screamed with laughter! (edited)

Air turbulence less power and can't fit chain cover on ^ not good :(

Mesh filter: No turbulence, more power and allows (with modification) chain cover to be used

Win win^

It is much quitter the other half but as you see, I cut it for more open flow. I would have cut it down more but I wanted to still fit in the stock bracket.

I'm used to the noise now too! : )

Hole is not centered making turbulence on magnum air box and small surface area of filter plus being longer the metal mesh filter makes for less performance.

2t engines can benefit from filters with good surface area and being close to carb inlet. Basically a velocity stack on end of carb is best and airbox is worse so there is even better filter for a Bing then the cheep 14$ hi flow filter.

Now a SHA no needle carb on some bikes needs restriction for low end power and nothin is written in stone with kits/Reed kits, I'm just talking about stockish puch Bing setups.

Bad Cadillac - That air filter looks mean lol

Am I the only one that uses the foam filters? Or have theses been proven to flow less air than the metal mesh. I really don't care about noise I'd rather have a loud high performing filter then a quite metal mesh one.

http://www.treatland.tv/UNI-air-filter-foam-4x6-p/uni-red-foam-4x6.htm

The shop-vac i was using is capable of about 60 cubic ft/min, but would obviously be flowing somewhat less than that through the red fitting, but still flowing many times more than any moped would pull through at any rpm. I may try using my other shop-vac with it's 190 cubic ft/min just to see what happens. Hoping to see a larger spread in the numbers. With the transducer having a usable range of about 3.5 volts, it was a little disappointing to see everything roll in within a .25 volt range.

Maybe attaching a carb to the device before attaching a filter would net more 'real' figures.

I've never had the metal mesh filter apart, so after the testing i decided to investigate. The rubber is not bellows shaped. It is smooth on the inside and much larger just inside of the hole where it mounts to the carb.

Afterwards, i took the metal mesh filter without it's rubber hose and placed it in the carb half on the magnum filter. It flowed at 2.00 volts also, and it seemed much quieter. I might see what stuffing some foam in it does.