Can i just put all the parts together, then go for a ride or do i need to do other things after i assemble the kit
Can i just put all the parts together, then go for a ride or do i need to do other things after i assemble the kit
?
You might want to wait more than 1 minute to expect a reply.
I would coat the new cylinder's walls with 2-stroke, add a little extra 2 stroke oil to the pre-mix and not go WOT for the first 100 miles. (edited)
Would i need to set anything like jetting?
If you have done any portwork or inreased the compression definitely. If its still a stock setup you should be fine. Its always best to run a temp gauge and do plug chops to make sure tho.
the set up has a puch jammy performance pipe exhaust pipe which increases the compression? (im a new to this)... do i have to reset the timing? then do the jets?
if your putting a new pipe on you need to upjet. If the bike was already running stock your timing should still be fine.
Chamfer the ports BEFORE putting it together. Leak test afterwords.
the kit came with a dellorto SHA 16.16 carburetor with lever choke, would i still need an upjet?
Timing, timing, timing, timing
Is a must for cool temps when running a kit .
Setting point gap and setting Timing (14-16 degrees/mm btdc) must be done before you set the jet in your carburetor.
You should remove the flywheel and clean/derust the point cam and re-grease it, clean the points too.
Quite possibly the ignition hasn't been serviced 30 years so do that first I would not run the 16.16 SHA carburetor. I would get a 14mm bing instead.
Run a all around power pipe like a circuit or estroil for good torque needed for 2nd gear if za50 or good mid power e50 (edited)
here read for a while, good stuff.:http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Install_a_kit. .http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Fred%27s_Guide. .http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Category:For_Newbies
Temp gauge. Don't even start it without one. It will help a lot when jetting, and it will help you identiify a sudden airleak, you'd see it get hot pretty fast.
I read somewhere that it was good to do a few heat cycles, like run for a while until hot, then let it cool down completely, again the temp gauge, yay.
I would also check for air leaks obsessively, but that's me. (edited)
that's gonna be so much fazter...
yea its good to be on the safe side, when i do a heat cycle when do i use the temp gauge during or after and where does the temp gauge go? when i also rejet im just unscrewing the jets and screwing it back in?
the temp gauge attaches to your spark plug and gives you a continuous readout. Mount it to your bike and keep an eye on it. Jetting is correct, as long as your putting a larger numbered jet back in.
this is what we are talking about for temp gauges. They do have different colours available.
got it. how do i know i need to get a bigger jet and how much bigger?
they have numbers on them, buy a range of them higher than what your current one is. Im not really a puch person so i dont know what sizes those bings like. Think my buddy went up 6 or 8 sizes when he put a jammy on his stock bike. If its an actual kit you got and not just stock you might need to go up around 15 sizes.
Look up "Plug Chop" in the wiki, thats the best way to tell if you need to go higher or lower on the jet sizes, temp gauge will help too.. if your hot your too small (or have another issue).
I have riden thousands of miles on 50cc puchs and never in the slightest have felt i needed a temp gauge. Only once seized an engine because i didnt notice all the oil had leaked out of the cases. Temp gauges might come in handy when you are heavily tuning or using a bigger cc cylinder, but for 50 cc common sense and just listening to your engine should do the trick
Bas Autowas Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have riden thousands of miles on 50cc puchs and
> never in the slightest have felt i needed a temp
> gauge. Only once seized an engine because i didnt
> notice all the oil had leaked out of the cases.
> Temp gauges might come in handy when you are
> heavily tuning or using a bigger cc cylinder, but
> for 50 cc common sense and just listening to your
> engine should do the trick
Poor advice! "Listening to your engine" What? listening to it seize?
When the engine pings or starts to run rough it's already in seize territory temperatures
"Thousands of miles on a puch"
How about Thousands of miles a year for 37 years ?
In those 37 years I've seen stock cylinders seize all the time (mostly open port aluminum cylinders) and a 50cc kit can and will seize especially nowadays because they are made cheep.
I'm kinda happy that the bikes seized because I got many a bike for a cheap price because they had seized cylinders/pistons. Yep low timing, correct jetting and a temperature gauge is needed for cool running. Just because it hasn't happened to you you're lucky maybe.
Buy a gauge and put it on maybe you will be amazed how hot you're really running.
Several locals who never ran gauges Would seize cylinders all the time after they got gauges they saw how hot they really were.
Hi comp head/wrong squish, high timing, poor jetting and lack of break in any or all of these things will seize a new 50cc kit in a few km many times.
Would you run your car without a temperature gauge or even a dummy light?
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: